I am sitting writing this final blog post in JFK airport at about midnight having earlier arrived from San Francisco, and I'm just waiting for my flight on to London in the morning. It's quite a strange feeling to consider that I've been away from the UK for almost 6 months and after all the excitement of travelling and seeing the world I'm now on my way back home to normal life.
My last post ended on Saturday and so I shall continue from Sunday morning. I had actually originally booked to stay in a different hostel when I arrived in San Francisco but ended up changing my plans a bit and heading up to San Francisco a few days earlier which is why I ended up in the free beer hostel (which was pretty crazy but also expensive and not really the nicest place in the world). So on Sunday I checked out of said hostel and headed a couple of blocks over to the Adelaide Hostel (I have no idea why it's called that). After having got into my room about midday I headed out for some lunch and then ended up walking across the city through the civic district to the Golden Gate Park which is a big green area containing things such as a lake, botanical gardens, museums and art galleries. It was actually a fair bit bigger than I had anticipated, but it was quite a nice walk through it and out to the beach and the Pacific Ocean on the far side. It was good fun and a pleasant walk especially after having spent so much time surrounded by city buildings. That night I took advantage of a $5 dollar meal at the hostel and afterwards headed out with my Italian friends (who had also moved hostels) and a couple of guys from Virginia (Geoffry and Michael) to a pub called the Hemlock for some live music. There were three acts (a chilled out band featuring a pretty good female lead, a funky electro-pop piano female singer who was helped out by her friend who played the clarinet and bass clarinet which was an interesting mix, and an acid rock band called the Ganglians with a lead singer who looked like he could have played Jesus in some kind of film). All the music was surprisingly good and it was cool to do something a bit different for once.
Most of the next day was pretty chilled out as I wandered around some shops to see if I could find anything worth buying to take home. Later I was sending some emails and checking Facebook when a guy (Richard) from Girton came online and said he was also in San Francisco. A short conversation followed and it soon transpired that he was not only staying in the same hostel as me but was also on Facebook in the same room. Shows what a small world it is. He was heading off to meet Sylvia (who was also at Girton a couple of years above us) and her boyfriend for dinner so I happily tagged along.
We arranged to meet up again the next day to go to a lunchtime concert in an old church (Four-hands piano performance of some Bernstein and the Rite of Spring) and afterwards headed down to The Mission where there are lots of murals and thrift shops (for Sylvia and Richard to buy supplies for there upcoming Burning Man experience). We had planned to go to one of the fancier hotels for a free wine-tasting and film (The Maltese Falcon) but when we arrived it was rather busy so we opted instead to go for a walk across the many hills in San Francisco taking in the views and eventually finding some dinner (I had a very nice bacon and apple pizza) before heading back to the hostel.
On Wednesday Sylvia and Stephen (her boyfriend) were heading over to the Golden Gate Park to visit a science museum place, but Richard and I opted to instead head up to the Presidio (a park/recreation area where the Golden Gate Bridge is located). We got the bus and then walked along the bayfront although to begin with we couldn't see any of the bridge due to the famous San Francisco mist that rolls in off the sea. Fortunately by the time we were a bit closer to the bridge it had cleared enough for us to at least be able to see some of it and we walked out a short way along the bridge just to get a feel for it. It was quite strange to be walking along a bridge surrounded by mist with the cables from the bridge reaching up into nowhere. I decided to get the bus back afterwards so that I could pack (and purchase an alarm clock) while Richard opted to walk. That evening all 4 of us reconvened and we headed up to the top of the Macy's department store to The Cheesecake Factory for dinner. It was definitely popular and it took a while for us to get a table but it was definitely worth it (and besides, we had the entertainment of watching live music happening below us in Union Square with people dancing (Sylvia in fact went and joined in). It was a great meal (I had Salisbury Steak) and after stuffing ourselves with some exquisite cheesecake we were completely sated. From there we headed back over to Foley's (the same piano bar I had visited earlier in the week) for a few drinks and some entertainment (the others even dedicated a performance of Should I Stay Or Should I Go by The Clash to me) before heading back to attempt to get some sleep.
I didn't really sleep properly before I was up early to check out and catch a shuttle to the airport. Just to finish in style my flight from SFO to JFK was delayed by about 4 hours but other than that everything went smoothly and I'm now sitting in JFK airport in the middle of the night (although it's still surprisingly alive) waiting for my final (and I believe 16th of the trip) flight home. This trip has been such a fantastic experience and I would definitely love to do another one in the future. I've learned a few things from this one and probably wouldn't do it quite the same again but I've loved every second of it and it's probably going to take me a while to adjust back to normality. Farewell world, and I hope this blog has brought you at least some entertainment.
Friday 26 August 2011
Sunday 21 August 2011
Beaches, Casinos and Free Beer
I landed in California at what felt like quite an unhealthy time in the morning and proceeded to catch a shuttle over to Santa Monica, where I was staying. As usual, arriving early meant I couldn't check in until later so I dumped my bags and went for a stroll down to the sea and over to the pier. It is apparently the way in this part of the world that it is almost always overcast in the morning but then clears up very nicely in the afternoon, so although my morning stroll wasn't the best, the sun came out while I was eating lunch, which was lovely (and so was lunch, a salmon panini). I also browsed a couple of shops including a Barnes and Noble bookshop which was utter heaven after the extortionate prices down-under. Naturally I ended up buying myself another book because of this. Eventually it was time to go check in before a quiet afternoon and an evening spent catching up on a load of blog-writing, emails and all the exciting things in life (taking advantage of the free wifi) and watching a spot of television. After this it was time for an early-ish night to try and catch up on sleep somewhat.
After a pleasant lie-in I was off on a tour-bus. Now, normally I am not a fan of tour buses, as you end up being herded around like cattle and some really boring person tells you lots of 'interesting' facts about every single building you drive past, but LA is massive and I didn't have a huge amount of time there so I decided to try and see everything in one go. Besides, it was called the RastaBus (and was appropriately decorated). We started off by heading up the coast to see Malibu, which turned out to be less exciting than I had expected and wasn't helped by the usual overcast morning. From there we headed through some of the suburbs such as Beverly Hills and saw the homes (or mansions) of some celebrities. Then it was up to Greystone Mansion which is set in a nice little park and has been used as a set in a large number of movies such as Spiderman, X-Men and Rush Hour. There were some pretty good views out over the city as well. From there we headed over to the Farmer's Market which has what is basically a huge outdoor food court with an incredible range of different cuisines (unsurprisingly this is where we had lunch). On the bus there were 4 of us from the same hostel (Roslyn, Rhys, Joe and I) and it almost felt like we were a walking joke... an Englishman, an Irishman, a Welshman and a Scot walk into a bar... but we all got on well. After filling up on lunch we got back on the bus and went up to Griffith Park where you can get a decent view of the Hollywood Sign (which was actually originally a publicity stunt for a housing development) and the rest of LA. There is also an observatory up there with some interesting displays including a Foucault Pendulum. Next stop was Hollywood itself with the Walk of Fame, Kodak Theatre (where the Oscars are held) and Graumann's Chinese Theatre (with all the handprints outside). After that it was time to head back to the hostel where I finally managed to catch up with this blog and complete a post detailing my time in New Zealand. That night there was the offer of all-you-can-eat burgers at the hostel which we decided to partake in (while they weren't the nicest I've ever had they filled the hole nicely). We also had a few free drinks before heading out on a night out organised by the hostel along with an Aussie and a few Kiwis. It was good fun, including watching a comedy show and going to a bar where they do close-up magic while you drink.
I ended up spending most of the next day trying to organise where I was going to go and stay and basically took it easy with a little bit of a wander around Santa Monica. Then it was time for an earlier night.
Another early morning followed as I checked out and headed down the road to catch a bus to Las Vegas. For convenience's sake I had booked a bus/hotel/tour package with a couple of nights spent in Vegas so after 5 or so hours on the bus I was checking into the Imperial Palace, a hotel/casino on the strip. It's not the fanciest place in Vegas but it still felt pretty damn luxurious to me, especially compared to a hostel. I spent most of that afternoon wandering the strip and seeing all the crazy opulence of it all. There are lots of places that sell cut-price tickets to shows at various hotels so I indulged myself and purchased tickets to see Blue Man Group at the Venetian. I stopped in at a restaurant (which was part of Paris) for a steak dinner before heading over to the box office to collect my tickets. Walking there took a while since all the casinos and hotels are so incredibly huge but it wasn't long before I had my tickets and was taking my seat for the show. For those of you who don't know, Blue Man Group are basically 3 guys (who are blue) who perform a crazy art, music and comedy fusion show. It is hilarious and has some great audience participation moments (including one involving a very large amount of toilet paper), so much so that those of us in the front rows were provided with plastic ponchos to protect ourselves from the possibility of being hit with stuff like paint. It was a great show and afterwards I headed back to my (very big and comfortable) bed to get some sleep before yet another early start.
The next day was the tour portion of my Las Vegas trip. After being picked up at 6:40am I sat on a bus for a crazy long amount of time as we drove into Arizona to the Grand Canyon. What can I say? It certainly is very grand. It was sort of as I had expected from seeing photographs of it except for the fact that no picture can every really convey quite how big something is. It is MASSIVE and a very spectacular sight to behold. After a rather brief visit to the canyon itself it was time to get back on the bus for another (really fun and exciting) long bus journey back to Vegas. Since I would have time for a bit of a lie-in the following morning I decided to head downstairs and have a taste of the main reason people seem to go to Vegas, gambling. I tried a bit of everything from slots to poker, and after losing a bit of money I decided it wasn't really my thing after all and called it a night.
After a bit of a lie-in I repacked (yet again) and checked out before heading out on the strip to find some lunch and explore some of the other casinos I hadn't yet been to. On the way back I purchased a few souvenirs before collecting my bags from the hotel and heading round the corner to await the bus to take me back to LA. The rest of the day was pretty uneventful and I arrived in Venice Beach (just down the coast from where I had stayed in Santa Monica), checked into the hostel and called it a night fairly early.
Venice Beach is quite an interesting place filled with some real characters. It has quite a bohemian feel with quite a lot of street performers and stalls set up next to the beach itself. There was everything from musicians to a ventriloquist to a dog that could skateboard! I basically spent the day exploring the area and taking in the sights and sounds, having lunch in a cheap cafe and dinner in the restaurant/bar beneath the hostel I was staying in.
After a bit of a lie-in I got up, packed (again) and checked out. I headed round the corner to catch a bus up to Santa Monica, back to the hostel I had stayed at before to await my bus up the coast to San Francisco. While waiting outside for the bus to arrive I met Joe who was still there and still looking for a job and I read some more of my book, although I was getting rather close to the end by this point. The bus journey was uneventful although I did end up sitting next to an interesting guy called Doug from Pittsburgh. 8 or so hours later we arrived in San Francisco and I walked the short distance down the street from where I was dropped off to the hostel I was staying at (San Francisco International Hostel). After checking in I had a bit of a relax before partaking in the hostel's main selling point: free beer every night. I met a couple of Italians called Stefano and Gianmarco and after the free beer had all run out (and we had been put to shame by the dancing skills of a young child) we headed round the corner to an Irish pub where there were two guys with pianos taking requests. It was pretty cool to watch and in all quite a fun night.
I had arranged to meet up with the Italians again the next day and after lunch in Chinatown we headed over to Fisherman's Wharf and a pretty interesting museum of arcade games old and new. We wandered around the waterfront for a bit before we decided to head back for a nap. For dinner the Italians had offered to cook some genuine Italian pasta and pesto (from a jar) which we enjoyed along with some local wine. By this point I was pretty shattered and after some free beer I called it a night and left the Italians to go out and party without me.
Today I had a pretty good lie-in before writing and sending some postcards and heading out west along the waterfront through the historical parts. Unfortunately I only arrived at the Maritime Museum 15 minutes before it was going to close so I might have to head back over there at some point. There was also some kind of gig going on which sounded pretty good and also preparations for a triathlon tomorrow. I got a good few photos of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge before walking back through the city to the hostel in order to complete this blog post which will probably end up being my penultimate one as I return to the UK in less than 6 days! Sadface.
After a pleasant lie-in I was off on a tour-bus. Now, normally I am not a fan of tour buses, as you end up being herded around like cattle and some really boring person tells you lots of 'interesting' facts about every single building you drive past, but LA is massive and I didn't have a huge amount of time there so I decided to try and see everything in one go. Besides, it was called the RastaBus (and was appropriately decorated). We started off by heading up the coast to see Malibu, which turned out to be less exciting than I had expected and wasn't helped by the usual overcast morning. From there we headed through some of the suburbs such as Beverly Hills and saw the homes (or mansions) of some celebrities. Then it was up to Greystone Mansion which is set in a nice little park and has been used as a set in a large number of movies such as Spiderman, X-Men and Rush Hour. There were some pretty good views out over the city as well. From there we headed over to the Farmer's Market which has what is basically a huge outdoor food court with an incredible range of different cuisines (unsurprisingly this is where we had lunch). On the bus there were 4 of us from the same hostel (Roslyn, Rhys, Joe and I) and it almost felt like we were a walking joke... an Englishman, an Irishman, a Welshman and a Scot walk into a bar... but we all got on well. After filling up on lunch we got back on the bus and went up to Griffith Park where you can get a decent view of the Hollywood Sign (which was actually originally a publicity stunt for a housing development) and the rest of LA. There is also an observatory up there with some interesting displays including a Foucault Pendulum. Next stop was Hollywood itself with the Walk of Fame, Kodak Theatre (where the Oscars are held) and Graumann's Chinese Theatre (with all the handprints outside). After that it was time to head back to the hostel where I finally managed to catch up with this blog and complete a post detailing my time in New Zealand. That night there was the offer of all-you-can-eat burgers at the hostel which we decided to partake in (while they weren't the nicest I've ever had they filled the hole nicely). We also had a few free drinks before heading out on a night out organised by the hostel along with an Aussie and a few Kiwis. It was good fun, including watching a comedy show and going to a bar where they do close-up magic while you drink.
I ended up spending most of the next day trying to organise where I was going to go and stay and basically took it easy with a little bit of a wander around Santa Monica. Then it was time for an earlier night.
Another early morning followed as I checked out and headed down the road to catch a bus to Las Vegas. For convenience's sake I had booked a bus/hotel/tour package with a couple of nights spent in Vegas so after 5 or so hours on the bus I was checking into the Imperial Palace, a hotel/casino on the strip. It's not the fanciest place in Vegas but it still felt pretty damn luxurious to me, especially compared to a hostel. I spent most of that afternoon wandering the strip and seeing all the crazy opulence of it all. There are lots of places that sell cut-price tickets to shows at various hotels so I indulged myself and purchased tickets to see Blue Man Group at the Venetian. I stopped in at a restaurant (which was part of Paris) for a steak dinner before heading over to the box office to collect my tickets. Walking there took a while since all the casinos and hotels are so incredibly huge but it wasn't long before I had my tickets and was taking my seat for the show. For those of you who don't know, Blue Man Group are basically 3 guys (who are blue) who perform a crazy art, music and comedy fusion show. It is hilarious and has some great audience participation moments (including one involving a very large amount of toilet paper), so much so that those of us in the front rows were provided with plastic ponchos to protect ourselves from the possibility of being hit with stuff like paint. It was a great show and afterwards I headed back to my (very big and comfortable) bed to get some sleep before yet another early start.
The next day was the tour portion of my Las Vegas trip. After being picked up at 6:40am I sat on a bus for a crazy long amount of time as we drove into Arizona to the Grand Canyon. What can I say? It certainly is very grand. It was sort of as I had expected from seeing photographs of it except for the fact that no picture can every really convey quite how big something is. It is MASSIVE and a very spectacular sight to behold. After a rather brief visit to the canyon itself it was time to get back on the bus for another (really fun and exciting) long bus journey back to Vegas. Since I would have time for a bit of a lie-in the following morning I decided to head downstairs and have a taste of the main reason people seem to go to Vegas, gambling. I tried a bit of everything from slots to poker, and after losing a bit of money I decided it wasn't really my thing after all and called it a night.
After a bit of a lie-in I repacked (yet again) and checked out before heading out on the strip to find some lunch and explore some of the other casinos I hadn't yet been to. On the way back I purchased a few souvenirs before collecting my bags from the hotel and heading round the corner to await the bus to take me back to LA. The rest of the day was pretty uneventful and I arrived in Venice Beach (just down the coast from where I had stayed in Santa Monica), checked into the hostel and called it a night fairly early.
Venice Beach is quite an interesting place filled with some real characters. It has quite a bohemian feel with quite a lot of street performers and stalls set up next to the beach itself. There was everything from musicians to a ventriloquist to a dog that could skateboard! I basically spent the day exploring the area and taking in the sights and sounds, having lunch in a cheap cafe and dinner in the restaurant/bar beneath the hostel I was staying in.
After a bit of a lie-in I got up, packed (again) and checked out. I headed round the corner to catch a bus up to Santa Monica, back to the hostel I had stayed at before to await my bus up the coast to San Francisco. While waiting outside for the bus to arrive I met Joe who was still there and still looking for a job and I read some more of my book, although I was getting rather close to the end by this point. The bus journey was uneventful although I did end up sitting next to an interesting guy called Doug from Pittsburgh. 8 or so hours later we arrived in San Francisco and I walked the short distance down the street from where I was dropped off to the hostel I was staying at (San Francisco International Hostel). After checking in I had a bit of a relax before partaking in the hostel's main selling point: free beer every night. I met a couple of Italians called Stefano and Gianmarco and after the free beer had all run out (and we had been put to shame by the dancing skills of a young child) we headed round the corner to an Irish pub where there were two guys with pianos taking requests. It was pretty cool to watch and in all quite a fun night.
I had arranged to meet up with the Italians again the next day and after lunch in Chinatown we headed over to Fisherman's Wharf and a pretty interesting museum of arcade games old and new. We wandered around the waterfront for a bit before we decided to head back for a nap. For dinner the Italians had offered to cook some genuine Italian pasta and pesto (from a jar) which we enjoyed along with some local wine. By this point I was pretty shattered and after some free beer I called it a night and left the Italians to go out and party without me.
Today I had a pretty good lie-in before writing and sending some postcards and heading out west along the waterfront through the historical parts. Unfortunately I only arrived at the Maritime Museum 15 minutes before it was going to close so I might have to head back over there at some point. There was also some kind of gig going on which sounded pretty good and also preparations for a triathlon tomorrow. I got a good few photos of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge before walking back through the city to the hostel in order to complete this blog post which will probably end up being my penultimate one as I return to the UK in less than 6 days! Sadface.
Friday 12 August 2011
Kiwis, Mountains and Adventure Sports
I landed in Auckland without really any kind of plan as to what I would be doing. I had a flight in and a flight out as well as a few days accommodation to start off with. The flight and everything went pretty smoothly and eventually I was checked into a nice quiet hostel just outside of town (minus a slight confusion about what room I had actually booked). Quite a bit of my time was just spent doing some research about the best ways to see New Zealand (and the West Coast of the USA) in the relatively short time I had available to me. I had a bit of a wander around the city and down to waterfront as well as visiting the (quite impressive) Auckland Museum which is set in the Domain (basically a botanic garden) which was especially nice considering the lovely weather as well as heading up to the top of the Sky Tower and catching a film as part of the Auckland International Film Festival (at the suggestion of my cousin). I also met up with my cousin Katherine for lunch which was great as it had been a number of years since I had last seen her. Unfortunately she was extremely busy at the time so we decided that we might try and catch up again before I flew out of Auckland in a few weeks. Eventually I decided that I quite fancied a simple trip through New Zealand where I wouldn't have to make too many decisions about things like where to go and where to stay so I would use a hop-on hop-off backpacker bus service. In New Zealand there are three main options, Magic Bus, Stray Bus and the Kiwi Experience. After a bit of research I established that Magic Bus is mainly older people and very relaxed, Kiwi Experience attracts a lot of Gap Year people and is more lively and Stray is somewhere in between. I had heard from some people that Kiwi Experience could end up being a bit of a party bus and can be full of people whose only aim is to drink as much as possible so I opted for Stray (especially as they had a sale with several hundred dollars off the majority of the passes) and booked to leave on a bus that Thursday.
I wasn't really 100% sure what to expect from such a trip so it was with a little trepidation that I boarded the bus early on Thursday morning. It seemed that quite a few people on the bus were not morning people so it began slowly, with our driver Tutu (nickname, clearly) trying to convince us to be sociable. I needn't have worried though, since by the time we reached a waterfall (the first of many) called Bridal Veil Falls we were all getting along nicely. It turned out that the vast majority of our bus were either English, Irish or German, a theme that was to continue throughout the trip. In winter Stray operates smaller buses (seating 24ish) which was really nice because it made it a bit more cosy than having 10 people on a 50-seater.
Our first proper stop was in a place called Raglan on the west coast of the North Island which is a hotspot for surfing apparently (although there wasn't much of a surf that day). The weather was less than stellar so no-one really felt particularly energetic and we ended up spending the evening watching films and getting to know each other (accompanied by a fine bangers & mash cooked by Tutu) while we watched the rain outside.
It was another early-ish start the next day as we headed over to Waitomo for some exciting cave-related activities. The majority of people picked to do a caving adventure named Haggis Honking Holes (or something) and it wasn't long before we headed off in a minibus down to near the cave entrance to get geared up in our wetsuits, harnesses and wellies. After a quick rundown on how abseiling works we got down to the business at hand. It was an awesome experience, and quite different to my last caving adventure in the Philippines (there I was dressed in shorts, T-shirt and flip-flops). There was some abseiling, some rock climbing, some crawling (and almost swimming) and lots of getting wet. We were constantly emptying our wellies which kept being filled up by waterfalls and large pools in the bottom of caves. It was really good fun and we also managed to spy a number of glow-worms (after we had turned all our torches off and were in the pitch black). Once we had made our way back up out and had showered and changed, we were back in the bright orange Stray bus to make our way over to Maketu where we would be spending the night in a marae. A marae is a traditional Maori communal building where they would meet and socialise. The one we were staying at was only a family one, but we were still expected to follow some of their traditions. On arrival we were greeted by Uncle Boy who is in charge. He invited us into the kitchen/dining room for a chat and some dinner before that evening's activities. As part of understanding the Maori traditions our bus was essentially treated as a visiting tribe which meant that we would have to undergo a kind of ceremony of greeting. There were only two guys on our bus (other than Tutu), and since I was older I was to act as chief for the purposes of the evening, which was certainly a new experience. It began with one of their tribe issuing a challenge which was a little disconcerting as he danced around with a spear-like thing being intimidating (although he was only 10) and then placing a token (a leaf in this case) on the floor which I had to pick up without breaking eye contact, which meant we could then be accepted as friends and then go and greet each member individually by touching noses and saying 'Kia Ora'. With those formalities out of the way we watched some demonstrations before us guys (all 3 of us including Tutu) went off to go and learn the Haka. After stripping down and putting on some inadequate grass skirt things we got straight into it. As chief I was supposed to lead the Haka and after a lot of shouting and thigh-slapping (we had massive bruising on our thighs afterwards and for the next few days) we had mastered enough to perform to the girls. Once we had finished they performed what they had learned with the poi (basically a ball on string) before we were treated to some traditional Maori songs. When it was over we chilled out and caught the end of the NZ v. Fiji rugby match on TV before heading to bed on mattresses which we had laid out on the floor of the marae.
The next day was yet again a fairly early start (definitely felt like one anyway) as we headed off to Rotorua, famed for it's geothermal activity. All the girls had opted to go for a spa session in the mud baths and hot springs (surprise, surprise), but Ed (the other guy on the bus) and I decided we would instead just go for a walk around the lake and some of the geothermically active areas. It was quite a nice stroll in the end and it was amazing to see the volatility of the earth and smell the sulphur being spewed out of bubbling pools. It was quite spectacular really. After a spot of picking up/dropping off people (I had in the end decided to stay on the bus for the entire time because I was a little pushed for time and wanted to see and do as much as possible) we were off to Taupo and the biggest lake in New Zealand via Huka Falls (another waterfall). There was the option to go skydiving in Taupo which a few of us were quite keen to do, but on arrival the weather wasn't great so we decided to save it and go somewhere else with hopefully better weather. That night we were staying the centre of Taupo and after a nice (and cheap) dinner in the hostel we had a pretty good night out, which was really good for getting to know each other a little better.
Unfortunately the next day was yet another fairly early start but we managed to rouse ourselves for the journey to a place called Blue Duck Lodge, a 9,000 acre environmentally minded working farm up in the hills in one of the remoter parts of the North Island. It was quite a beautiful place, only slightly less so because of the overcast weather. Most people had either opted to go walking by themselves or on a 4WD safari, but Tutu, Ed, Kerry (who we had picked up in Rotorua) and I opted for something a little bit different and went out to shoot goats. On the farm goats are a pest because of the damage they can cause to the environment. As such, most people on the farm carry a rifle with them when out working and will shoot goats if they see them. It was definitely a new experience, I had used a rifle before but never in a hunting context. We didn't have the best luck finding goats (although apparently there had been loads earlier) but we still did pretty well and managed to get 7 or so in the afternoon. Everyone got at least one (except for Ed who seemed to strangely struggle to see down the scope properly) and we saw a few of them being gutted out in the field before we took them back with us. On our return we had a tasty goat curry (not the same goats as we shot) before eventually heading to bed for an even earlier start the next day.
We were up before 6am the next morning for a short drive over to the Tongariro National Park where a group of us wanted to attempt the hike called the Tongariro crossing. We had been told the night before that it was supposed to be the coldest day of the winter so far and it wasn't particularly likely that we would be able to make it all the way over the crossing, but we were still game to give it a go. After kitting ourselves out with all the proper gear (everything from waterproof jackets and fleeces to crampons and ice axes) and after a short drive into the park we began our trek. The first part was pretty easy, it was mostly flat and a lot of it was over boardwalks, but we slowly climbed up 300 meters over 5km or so of walking. This brought us to the bottom of the mountains themselves. At this point it was pretty overcast and visibility wasn't great but we could just about make out Mt. Ngauruhoe (more commonly known as Mt. Doom from LOTR) towering above us. From there it became a little bit more tricky as we began to climb another 300m, but this time over just 1km. It was made all the harder by a very strong wind and some pretty damn icy patches. We slowly moved forward and eventually made it up to South Crater at about 1700m. Up above us we could see Red Crater, the highest point of the crossing (almost 1900m) but it was decided that we wouldn't be able to make it much further because we had made pretty slow going and the fierce wind would make it quite dangerous up on Red Crater. Instead we carried on along the flat area of South Crater only to discover that the igloo we had been promised for lunch had collapsed in the last few days. Unperturbed we ate our lunches as best we could (and as quickly) before starting our journey back. Amazingly, as we began our descent from South Crater, the weather began to clear and we were rewarded with stunning views down to where we had started as well as across the park. As we descended we could clearly see the main peaks of the park, Tongariro, Ruapehu (ski fields) and Ngauruhoe and the surrounding area, the whole trip was worth it just for those views. The weather had also eased off enough that it was quite a pleasant descent and return to where we were picked up, and after returning our gear we headed over to the place we were staying (which was actually amazing) and where the rest of the Stray bus had spent the day relaxing in front of the open fires. On our way there the weather turned sour again and brought in a bit of a snowstorm which didn't really relent at all that evening. Although there were even outdoor hot-tubs I didn't really fancy braving them and after a hot shower and a good meal passed the evening in front of the fire.
We were on the move again the next day as we continued our journey south to Wellington. It wasn't a particularly exciting day as it was mostly spent travelling, but we eventually arrived in the evening and after quickly dumping our bags in the room where we were to spend the night, Kerry and I hastened over to the Te Papa museum which is supposed to be one of the best museums in the country, especially with regards to Maori culture. It didn't disappoint and although we only had an hour and a bit to spend there we both emerged satisfied and feeling as if we had come to a better understanding of New Zealand, it's history and the Maori people.
Since we were going to have another fairly early morning we turned in reasonably early to catch a shuttle over to the ferry terminal where we were about to leave the North Island behind and head across the Cook Strait to the South Island and Picton. It was a lovely journey with almost perfect weather and some great views especially of the Marlborough Sounds on the South Island. After a few hours on the boat we reached Picton where we spent a bit of time picking up a few people (by this time the bus was getting considerably fuller than it had been) before passing through Marlborough wine country on to the town of Nelson. After a brief stop here to drop off and pick up people (including saying goodbye to Kerry) we headed on to Marahau, located on the edge of the Abel Tasman National Park (via a supermarket stop for supplies in Motueka). That night we managed to take over the communal area and scare off the other few people staying there and had a lovely dinner together including some fresh local mussels prepared by Tutu and a few beers to wash them down.
It made a nice change the following day to not have to worry about travelling anywhere, and a bunch of us headed off on a Kayaking/Walking/Sailing adventure. After being kitted up in the appropriate gear we paired up and began a kayaking trip past some amazing scenery (including glimpsing a number of seals sunbathing on the rocks). The weather was perfect and calm and it was a lovely way to spend a morning. After a couple of hours or so we reached our destination beach where we stopped for lunch and to strip off the kayaking gear. From there we bade farewell to our kayak guide and had a pleasant stroll up over the headland (taking in yet more fantastic views) to the other side where we were to meet up with the sailing boat (although certain members of the group may have found it more hard work than others...). On reaching the beach on the other side we met those people who had opted just for the full day's sailing and it wasn't too long before we were all aboard the catamaran (very aptly named 'Stray Cat') and heading out into the bay. Unfortunately the calm weather that had been so nice earlier in the day wasn't quite so helpful at this point as there wasn't enough wind to run under sail to start with, but after moving further away from shore and out of shelter it did pick up enough for us to enjoy some very peaceful sailing (even if the wind was a little bit chilly) and we headed around the bay spotting some more seals before taking in Split Apple Rock and to our final destination where we were returned to our hostel by minibus. All in all it was a wonderful relaxing day followed by a relaxing evening and a tasty Mexican meal (which was probably a good thing considering the next day's plans).
It began with an even earlier start for a few of us (Ed, Mickey and I) as, after the disappointment of Taupo, we were going skydiving. To be honest I wasn't really that nervous about it, maybe because I hadn't really spent much time thinking about it. Upon arrival at the airfield we were shown a DVD, asked to sign our life away, weighed and before we knew it we were kitted up and sitting in a tiny little plane with only space for 6 people making our way up to 16500ft. It felt like we barely had time to marvel at the scenery before we were breathing oxygen from masks and the light was going green. The door was hauled open and the rush of cold air hit me (although I didn't really feel cold because of the amount of adrenaline running through my body). The cameraman got out onto the rail on the side of the plane and my tandem master and I shuffled over to the exit until I was dangling over the edge, held only by my harness to my partner. A quick pose for photos followed before we were out, beginning our 75 seconds of freefall. It was definitely one of the most surreal experiences of my life. Most of the freefall just felt like I was lying on a cushion of air since you don't really get any sense of the ground rushing up towards you. It apparently lasted 75 seconds but to me it felt more like 10 and before I knew it the parachute had been pulled and we were drifting slowly down to earth. The views are almost indescribable, seeing the tops of snow-capped mountains and all the way across the Marlborough Sounds to the North Island was amazing. It was all over too soon and we touched down, adrenaline still pumping through my veins. I do have both photos and videos of the experience so everyone can have a good laugh at my expense...
After such an exciting morning we spent most of the rest of the day making our way over to the West Coast and down to Greymouth including a stop at Pancake Rocks (named because they look like stacks of pancakes; also interesting because of the 'blow-holes' in the tops of some of them). After having checked into where we were staying, most of us headed off for a brewery tour of Monteith's. Unfortunately it wasn't actually much of a tour as they were going through a significant amount of renovations, but we did watch an interesting DVD about the history of the brewery and how the process works. After this there came the most important part, the tasting. The beer wasn't quite up to European standards but it was some of the best I had tried while travelling and everyone got stuck into it. Following this we headed over to a restaurant where I had some of the BEST fish and chips I have ever tried. We hung around after eating for a few drinks but it appeared that some of the more 'mature' locals has started earlier than us and we were soon receiving plenty of abuse for not getting up and dancing, so after a while we decided to call it a night and left.
We awoke to a decidedly better-looking day (it had been miserable and drizzly when we had arrived in Greymouth the night before) but ended up not taking advantage of it and just having a lazy morning before our departure in early afternoon. Our next stop was Franz Josef, home of the mighty Franz Josef glacier and after booking our activities for the next day we had dinner and realised that it was in fact Saturday and the All Blacks were playing South Africa in the Tri-Nations and conveniently the Rainforest Retreat (where we were staying) was showing the match in their bar (called Monsoon; their tagline is 'It rains... We pour...'). That was pretty much how we spent the rest of the evening before calling it an early night to ensure we had enough energy for the exertions of the next day.
Most of the people on the bus had decided that they were going to do either a Full-day or Half-day hike on the glacier, but I decided to spend my Sunday doing something slightly different, Ice Climbing. It's a similar concept to rock climbing except with ice, massive crampons and a pair of ice axes to haul yourself up. I've always enjoyed a bit of climbing so I thought I'd give this a go as I didn't know if I'd ever have the chance again. It was awesome but exhausting and extremely satisfying when you managed to make it up to the top of the ice wall. We hiked up onto the glacier to start with and then spent the day climbing up crevasse walls of varying difficulty. Definitely something I'd do again. After hiking back down and getting back to the town we were pretty exhausted and spent the evening in the bar telling tales of our expeditions and watching a few rather entertaining games of pool.
For most of us it wasn't too early a morning, but some people had opted to go and skydive over neighbouring Fox Glacier (supposedly one of the most scenic jumps but not as high as Abel Tasman) so they were up and gone already by the time we were loading our bags onto the bus. We met up with them later that morning at Lake Matherson, a truly spectacular lake because it is incredibly reflective and acts like a mirror which is especially impressive when you have Mt Cook and Mt Tasman not too far away. After fuelling up on a big breakfast there we moved on through the Haast Pass to a place called Makarora nestled in between mountain ranges. The plan for after dinner (a rather tasty lamb shank) that night was karaoke which was great fun (apart from when the barman/DJ person got moody and told us to leave because we weren't buying enough drinks). Some highlights included Tutu singing Mysterious Girl and almost all the girls singing Don't Stop Me Now. Of course there is also video and photographic evidence of this.
On our way towards the snow of Queenstown we stopped in Wanaka, home of the lake of the same name... at least a few people did... Most of us visited Puzzling World, a crazy place full of mazes, optical illusions and other such oddities. It was awesome fun. We did have a brief 15 minute look at the lake afterwards while waiting to pick up people, but I think Puzzling World wins.
Our next stop was Queenstown which is apparently one of the most exciting places in New Zealand, pretty any kind of adventure sport you can think of can be done there and there's quite a substantial nightlife for when you've finished whatever exciting thing you've been doing. Just outside Queenstown is the A.J. Hackett Bungy Centre which is where bungy jumping first became a commercial activity. We all first watched Dave and Tutu throw themselves off the 40-something metre high bridge before those of us brave (or crazy) enough went and signed up to do jumps of our own. Earlier in the journey Tutu had held a quiz where the prize was 2-for-1 on the Nevis Arc, a 300m swing across a canyon including 70m of freefall. Dave and I had won said quiz so I was always going to give that a go. It wasn't long however (about 20 minutes) before I had convinced myself to also do the Nevis Bungy, the highest one in NZ (134m, with 8.5 seconds of freefall). We booked all this in for Thursday and since it was only Tuesday we put it to the back of our minds for now. On arrival into Queenstown we checked in and then headed over to sort out our ski trip for Wednesday. We had heard that the weather was forecast to be perfect, blue skies, sunshine and barely a breath of wind so the majority of people signed up and hired equipment for the trip up to the Cardrona ski fields. That night Tutu led us on a good night out, starting with pizza and ending up trying 'teapots' (essentially a cocktail mix in a teapot). As always this was well-documented.
We were up at the crack of dawn the next day (how unusual...) to catch our bus up to the Cardrona ski fields and after an hour or so of steep winding roads we reached them. It had been quite a while since I had last skied (7 years maybe?) but everyone says it's like riding a bike, you never forget. With that in mind I strapped on my skies and started off with a couple of green runs (interestingly in NZ there is no red, just green, blue and black which made it a little harder to judge...) and soon it came back to me. That's no to say I didn't have any falls, there were definitely a few (including a spectacular wipeout at the end when I had tired legs and was going over a rather hard, icy patch) but it was great to do it again and remember how much fun it is (when you haven't got snow everywhere). By the end of the day I was pretty shattered (and everyone else seemed the same) although I did have a good catch-up with Tom (from Cairns) on the bus after running into him and Viktoria (not literally) in the queue for a chair-lift. After getting back to the hostel and having returned all our gear we wandered out in search of food and found some really good fish and chips just down the road from our hostel. After eating we did go out to Altitude and then World Bar but we didn't last very long after our epic day on the slopes and retired pretty early to rest up before we threw ourselves out of a cable-car.
On Thursday morning we had a lovely lie-in which made a great change from the last couple of weeks. After grabbing a bite to eat we went over to be picked up by the bus and taken out to the canyon where the bungy is. By this point my adrenaline had started to kick in and I just wanted to get up there and do it. Unfortunately they do it in weight order starting with the heaviest, so unsurprisingly I had to wait a while. Once we had been weighed several times and been fitted with a harness we boarded a small cable car to take us out to the bungy platform. There were maybe 12 people in total jumping so it took a while before it was my turn, during which I had the dubious pleasure of watching everyone else go first. Eventually it was my turn so I hopped up onto a reclining seat thing and had my feet fastened together and the bungy cord attached to my harness. From there it was just a short shuffle up to the edge, pausing only for a few photos, before the guy doing it counted down and said jump. With that I didn't think but just pushed myself off the edge. Like skydiving it is a bizarre experience but in a completely different way, you can see the ground rush up towards you but it doesn't feel real. It was such a thrill though, and I would definitely do it again sometime. Afterwards Ed and I got told to go back on the cable car as they could only have so many people on the platform at once. Returning to the main building I convinced Ed to do the swing with me in tandem. So after being weighed again we wandered out across a swaying bridge to the swing platform (quite nerve-wracking when you're almost shaking from adrenaline). There we were again harnessed up (opting to do it backwards) and moved out until we were suspended above the canyon. The operator man was just telling us what to do with our arms when he pressed the release button and we fell, screaming and cursing because it was so unexpected. Having said that it was AMAZING and I was almost tempted to spend the $35 to do it again there and then. It was awesome. I'm going to have to plan my next holiday with the next big thrill in mind...
We had decided that night to go out for a nice meal all together since quite a few of us had been on the bus together for a while and the next day some of us would be leaving while others stayed in Queenstown. It was an awesome night out and definitely a fitting way to part ways (and some great stories were written).
I had grown quite used to Queenstown by the time we left since we had spent 3 nights there, the longest of any stop while with Stray so it was a bit of an effort to convince myself to leave the next morning. From Queenstown we headed towards Mt. Cook, NZ's tallest mountain and were staying in a nice lodge that was once the first hotel in the area in Mt. Cook Village. By this point we were pretty shattered so I spent an afternoon relaxing and starting to catch up with this blog which had fallen far too far behind. It was a lovely place to visit though, and I would be tempted to come back and do a bit of hiking here sometime in the future.
From there we headed on to Rangitata (where you can normally raft, but not in winter) via Tekapo (home of a lake) and lunch at Geraldine. There we had a good vigorous walk before celebrating someone's birthday (and first legal drink) before a tasty dinner of Nachos, meat, salsa and guacamole and an evening watching films, playing cards, being massively beaten at table-tennis by Frank the Dutchman (of the pair Fwank and Wob) and finally watching our skydiving films (not as embarassing as it could have been). It was my last Stray evening and I think it was a great way to end a fantastic 18 days.
For good old times sake it was another early start as we headed straight to Christchurch where farewells were said and Frank and I headed to our accommodation which was actually in an old historic jailhouse. Despite this it was quite pleasant and although it was a brief stay (just the one night), it still left me with a good impression. After arriving, Frank and I went for a walk towards the city centre. You can't actually get into the city centre because of the damage caused by the earthquake but just walking past it gave us a pretty good idea of the devastation caused. A lot of the city felt like a bit of a ghost town, with few people around and no businesses open, showing quite how much it has affected the city and the community. We wandered through the Botanic Gardens for a bit before catching a bus back round to the Jailhouse and basically just chilling out (and reading even more books) for the rest of the day.
The next day was a similarly boring affair, although I did buy yet another book (which of course I have already read) and watched a bit of a film while also doing a bit of a catch up job on this blog. Then, that evening I caught a shuttle bus to the Airport to catch what I thought was my flight. Unfortunately I could tell by the look on the face of the girl at check-in that something wasn't quite right. After a bit of confusion it was established that I had somehow made the booking for the night before and had therefore clearly missed my flight. Feeling like a massive idiot I bought myself a new ticket for the flight that evening and eventually managed to get checked in. The rest of the flight was uneventful and I made it to Auckland where I caught a shuttle to Freeman's Lodge, the same place I had stayed last time I was in Auckland. I had a few days in Auckland, but I didn't really do a lot apart from read, relax, sleep and browse some souvenir shops. I had half-hoped to catch up with my cousin Katherine again but she was unfortunately really busy with work so I amused myself and tried to catch up on the sleep I had lost while with Stray. From there it was then a 12ish hour flight over to LA and the final country on my travels around the world...
I wasn't really 100% sure what to expect from such a trip so it was with a little trepidation that I boarded the bus early on Thursday morning. It seemed that quite a few people on the bus were not morning people so it began slowly, with our driver Tutu (nickname, clearly) trying to convince us to be sociable. I needn't have worried though, since by the time we reached a waterfall (the first of many) called Bridal Veil Falls we were all getting along nicely. It turned out that the vast majority of our bus were either English, Irish or German, a theme that was to continue throughout the trip. In winter Stray operates smaller buses (seating 24ish) which was really nice because it made it a bit more cosy than having 10 people on a 50-seater.
Our first proper stop was in a place called Raglan on the west coast of the North Island which is a hotspot for surfing apparently (although there wasn't much of a surf that day). The weather was less than stellar so no-one really felt particularly energetic and we ended up spending the evening watching films and getting to know each other (accompanied by a fine bangers & mash cooked by Tutu) while we watched the rain outside.
It was another early-ish start the next day as we headed over to Waitomo for some exciting cave-related activities. The majority of people picked to do a caving adventure named Haggis Honking Holes (or something) and it wasn't long before we headed off in a minibus down to near the cave entrance to get geared up in our wetsuits, harnesses and wellies. After a quick rundown on how abseiling works we got down to the business at hand. It was an awesome experience, and quite different to my last caving adventure in the Philippines (there I was dressed in shorts, T-shirt and flip-flops). There was some abseiling, some rock climbing, some crawling (and almost swimming) and lots of getting wet. We were constantly emptying our wellies which kept being filled up by waterfalls and large pools in the bottom of caves. It was really good fun and we also managed to spy a number of glow-worms (after we had turned all our torches off and were in the pitch black). Once we had made our way back up out and had showered and changed, we were back in the bright orange Stray bus to make our way over to Maketu where we would be spending the night in a marae. A marae is a traditional Maori communal building where they would meet and socialise. The one we were staying at was only a family one, but we were still expected to follow some of their traditions. On arrival we were greeted by Uncle Boy who is in charge. He invited us into the kitchen/dining room for a chat and some dinner before that evening's activities. As part of understanding the Maori traditions our bus was essentially treated as a visiting tribe which meant that we would have to undergo a kind of ceremony of greeting. There were only two guys on our bus (other than Tutu), and since I was older I was to act as chief for the purposes of the evening, which was certainly a new experience. It began with one of their tribe issuing a challenge which was a little disconcerting as he danced around with a spear-like thing being intimidating (although he was only 10) and then placing a token (a leaf in this case) on the floor which I had to pick up without breaking eye contact, which meant we could then be accepted as friends and then go and greet each member individually by touching noses and saying 'Kia Ora'. With those formalities out of the way we watched some demonstrations before us guys (all 3 of us including Tutu) went off to go and learn the Haka. After stripping down and putting on some inadequate grass skirt things we got straight into it. As chief I was supposed to lead the Haka and after a lot of shouting and thigh-slapping (we had massive bruising on our thighs afterwards and for the next few days) we had mastered enough to perform to the girls. Once we had finished they performed what they had learned with the poi (basically a ball on string) before we were treated to some traditional Maori songs. When it was over we chilled out and caught the end of the NZ v. Fiji rugby match on TV before heading to bed on mattresses which we had laid out on the floor of the marae.
The next day was yet again a fairly early start (definitely felt like one anyway) as we headed off to Rotorua, famed for it's geothermal activity. All the girls had opted to go for a spa session in the mud baths and hot springs (surprise, surprise), but Ed (the other guy on the bus) and I decided we would instead just go for a walk around the lake and some of the geothermically active areas. It was quite a nice stroll in the end and it was amazing to see the volatility of the earth and smell the sulphur being spewed out of bubbling pools. It was quite spectacular really. After a spot of picking up/dropping off people (I had in the end decided to stay on the bus for the entire time because I was a little pushed for time and wanted to see and do as much as possible) we were off to Taupo and the biggest lake in New Zealand via Huka Falls (another waterfall). There was the option to go skydiving in Taupo which a few of us were quite keen to do, but on arrival the weather wasn't great so we decided to save it and go somewhere else with hopefully better weather. That night we were staying the centre of Taupo and after a nice (and cheap) dinner in the hostel we had a pretty good night out, which was really good for getting to know each other a little better.
Unfortunately the next day was yet another fairly early start but we managed to rouse ourselves for the journey to a place called Blue Duck Lodge, a 9,000 acre environmentally minded working farm up in the hills in one of the remoter parts of the North Island. It was quite a beautiful place, only slightly less so because of the overcast weather. Most people had either opted to go walking by themselves or on a 4WD safari, but Tutu, Ed, Kerry (who we had picked up in Rotorua) and I opted for something a little bit different and went out to shoot goats. On the farm goats are a pest because of the damage they can cause to the environment. As such, most people on the farm carry a rifle with them when out working and will shoot goats if they see them. It was definitely a new experience, I had used a rifle before but never in a hunting context. We didn't have the best luck finding goats (although apparently there had been loads earlier) but we still did pretty well and managed to get 7 or so in the afternoon. Everyone got at least one (except for Ed who seemed to strangely struggle to see down the scope properly) and we saw a few of them being gutted out in the field before we took them back with us. On our return we had a tasty goat curry (not the same goats as we shot) before eventually heading to bed for an even earlier start the next day.
We were up before 6am the next morning for a short drive over to the Tongariro National Park where a group of us wanted to attempt the hike called the Tongariro crossing. We had been told the night before that it was supposed to be the coldest day of the winter so far and it wasn't particularly likely that we would be able to make it all the way over the crossing, but we were still game to give it a go. After kitting ourselves out with all the proper gear (everything from waterproof jackets and fleeces to crampons and ice axes) and after a short drive into the park we began our trek. The first part was pretty easy, it was mostly flat and a lot of it was over boardwalks, but we slowly climbed up 300 meters over 5km or so of walking. This brought us to the bottom of the mountains themselves. At this point it was pretty overcast and visibility wasn't great but we could just about make out Mt. Ngauruhoe (more commonly known as Mt. Doom from LOTR) towering above us. From there it became a little bit more tricky as we began to climb another 300m, but this time over just 1km. It was made all the harder by a very strong wind and some pretty damn icy patches. We slowly moved forward and eventually made it up to South Crater at about 1700m. Up above us we could see Red Crater, the highest point of the crossing (almost 1900m) but it was decided that we wouldn't be able to make it much further because we had made pretty slow going and the fierce wind would make it quite dangerous up on Red Crater. Instead we carried on along the flat area of South Crater only to discover that the igloo we had been promised for lunch had collapsed in the last few days. Unperturbed we ate our lunches as best we could (and as quickly) before starting our journey back. Amazingly, as we began our descent from South Crater, the weather began to clear and we were rewarded with stunning views down to where we had started as well as across the park. As we descended we could clearly see the main peaks of the park, Tongariro, Ruapehu (ski fields) and Ngauruhoe and the surrounding area, the whole trip was worth it just for those views. The weather had also eased off enough that it was quite a pleasant descent and return to where we were picked up, and after returning our gear we headed over to the place we were staying (which was actually amazing) and where the rest of the Stray bus had spent the day relaxing in front of the open fires. On our way there the weather turned sour again and brought in a bit of a snowstorm which didn't really relent at all that evening. Although there were even outdoor hot-tubs I didn't really fancy braving them and after a hot shower and a good meal passed the evening in front of the fire.
We were on the move again the next day as we continued our journey south to Wellington. It wasn't a particularly exciting day as it was mostly spent travelling, but we eventually arrived in the evening and after quickly dumping our bags in the room where we were to spend the night, Kerry and I hastened over to the Te Papa museum which is supposed to be one of the best museums in the country, especially with regards to Maori culture. It didn't disappoint and although we only had an hour and a bit to spend there we both emerged satisfied and feeling as if we had come to a better understanding of New Zealand, it's history and the Maori people.
Since we were going to have another fairly early morning we turned in reasonably early to catch a shuttle over to the ferry terminal where we were about to leave the North Island behind and head across the Cook Strait to the South Island and Picton. It was a lovely journey with almost perfect weather and some great views especially of the Marlborough Sounds on the South Island. After a few hours on the boat we reached Picton where we spent a bit of time picking up a few people (by this time the bus was getting considerably fuller than it had been) before passing through Marlborough wine country on to the town of Nelson. After a brief stop here to drop off and pick up people (including saying goodbye to Kerry) we headed on to Marahau, located on the edge of the Abel Tasman National Park (via a supermarket stop for supplies in Motueka). That night we managed to take over the communal area and scare off the other few people staying there and had a lovely dinner together including some fresh local mussels prepared by Tutu and a few beers to wash them down.
It made a nice change the following day to not have to worry about travelling anywhere, and a bunch of us headed off on a Kayaking/Walking/Sailing adventure. After being kitted up in the appropriate gear we paired up and began a kayaking trip past some amazing scenery (including glimpsing a number of seals sunbathing on the rocks). The weather was perfect and calm and it was a lovely way to spend a morning. After a couple of hours or so we reached our destination beach where we stopped for lunch and to strip off the kayaking gear. From there we bade farewell to our kayak guide and had a pleasant stroll up over the headland (taking in yet more fantastic views) to the other side where we were to meet up with the sailing boat (although certain members of the group may have found it more hard work than others...). On reaching the beach on the other side we met those people who had opted just for the full day's sailing and it wasn't too long before we were all aboard the catamaran (very aptly named 'Stray Cat') and heading out into the bay. Unfortunately the calm weather that had been so nice earlier in the day wasn't quite so helpful at this point as there wasn't enough wind to run under sail to start with, but after moving further away from shore and out of shelter it did pick up enough for us to enjoy some very peaceful sailing (even if the wind was a little bit chilly) and we headed around the bay spotting some more seals before taking in Split Apple Rock and to our final destination where we were returned to our hostel by minibus. All in all it was a wonderful relaxing day followed by a relaxing evening and a tasty Mexican meal (which was probably a good thing considering the next day's plans).
It began with an even earlier start for a few of us (Ed, Mickey and I) as, after the disappointment of Taupo, we were going skydiving. To be honest I wasn't really that nervous about it, maybe because I hadn't really spent much time thinking about it. Upon arrival at the airfield we were shown a DVD, asked to sign our life away, weighed and before we knew it we were kitted up and sitting in a tiny little plane with only space for 6 people making our way up to 16500ft. It felt like we barely had time to marvel at the scenery before we were breathing oxygen from masks and the light was going green. The door was hauled open and the rush of cold air hit me (although I didn't really feel cold because of the amount of adrenaline running through my body). The cameraman got out onto the rail on the side of the plane and my tandem master and I shuffled over to the exit until I was dangling over the edge, held only by my harness to my partner. A quick pose for photos followed before we were out, beginning our 75 seconds of freefall. It was definitely one of the most surreal experiences of my life. Most of the freefall just felt like I was lying on a cushion of air since you don't really get any sense of the ground rushing up towards you. It apparently lasted 75 seconds but to me it felt more like 10 and before I knew it the parachute had been pulled and we were drifting slowly down to earth. The views are almost indescribable, seeing the tops of snow-capped mountains and all the way across the Marlborough Sounds to the North Island was amazing. It was all over too soon and we touched down, adrenaline still pumping through my veins. I do have both photos and videos of the experience so everyone can have a good laugh at my expense...
After such an exciting morning we spent most of the rest of the day making our way over to the West Coast and down to Greymouth including a stop at Pancake Rocks (named because they look like stacks of pancakes; also interesting because of the 'blow-holes' in the tops of some of them). After having checked into where we were staying, most of us headed off for a brewery tour of Monteith's. Unfortunately it wasn't actually much of a tour as they were going through a significant amount of renovations, but we did watch an interesting DVD about the history of the brewery and how the process works. After this there came the most important part, the tasting. The beer wasn't quite up to European standards but it was some of the best I had tried while travelling and everyone got stuck into it. Following this we headed over to a restaurant where I had some of the BEST fish and chips I have ever tried. We hung around after eating for a few drinks but it appeared that some of the more 'mature' locals has started earlier than us and we were soon receiving plenty of abuse for not getting up and dancing, so after a while we decided to call it a night and left.
We awoke to a decidedly better-looking day (it had been miserable and drizzly when we had arrived in Greymouth the night before) but ended up not taking advantage of it and just having a lazy morning before our departure in early afternoon. Our next stop was Franz Josef, home of the mighty Franz Josef glacier and after booking our activities for the next day we had dinner and realised that it was in fact Saturday and the All Blacks were playing South Africa in the Tri-Nations and conveniently the Rainforest Retreat (where we were staying) was showing the match in their bar (called Monsoon; their tagline is 'It rains... We pour...'). That was pretty much how we spent the rest of the evening before calling it an early night to ensure we had enough energy for the exertions of the next day.
Most of the people on the bus had decided that they were going to do either a Full-day or Half-day hike on the glacier, but I decided to spend my Sunday doing something slightly different, Ice Climbing. It's a similar concept to rock climbing except with ice, massive crampons and a pair of ice axes to haul yourself up. I've always enjoyed a bit of climbing so I thought I'd give this a go as I didn't know if I'd ever have the chance again. It was awesome but exhausting and extremely satisfying when you managed to make it up to the top of the ice wall. We hiked up onto the glacier to start with and then spent the day climbing up crevasse walls of varying difficulty. Definitely something I'd do again. After hiking back down and getting back to the town we were pretty exhausted and spent the evening in the bar telling tales of our expeditions and watching a few rather entertaining games of pool.
For most of us it wasn't too early a morning, but some people had opted to go and skydive over neighbouring Fox Glacier (supposedly one of the most scenic jumps but not as high as Abel Tasman) so they were up and gone already by the time we were loading our bags onto the bus. We met up with them later that morning at Lake Matherson, a truly spectacular lake because it is incredibly reflective and acts like a mirror which is especially impressive when you have Mt Cook and Mt Tasman not too far away. After fuelling up on a big breakfast there we moved on through the Haast Pass to a place called Makarora nestled in between mountain ranges. The plan for after dinner (a rather tasty lamb shank) that night was karaoke which was great fun (apart from when the barman/DJ person got moody and told us to leave because we weren't buying enough drinks). Some highlights included Tutu singing Mysterious Girl and almost all the girls singing Don't Stop Me Now. Of course there is also video and photographic evidence of this.
On our way towards the snow of Queenstown we stopped in Wanaka, home of the lake of the same name... at least a few people did... Most of us visited Puzzling World, a crazy place full of mazes, optical illusions and other such oddities. It was awesome fun. We did have a brief 15 minute look at the lake afterwards while waiting to pick up people, but I think Puzzling World wins.
Our next stop was Queenstown which is apparently one of the most exciting places in New Zealand, pretty any kind of adventure sport you can think of can be done there and there's quite a substantial nightlife for when you've finished whatever exciting thing you've been doing. Just outside Queenstown is the A.J. Hackett Bungy Centre which is where bungy jumping first became a commercial activity. We all first watched Dave and Tutu throw themselves off the 40-something metre high bridge before those of us brave (or crazy) enough went and signed up to do jumps of our own. Earlier in the journey Tutu had held a quiz where the prize was 2-for-1 on the Nevis Arc, a 300m swing across a canyon including 70m of freefall. Dave and I had won said quiz so I was always going to give that a go. It wasn't long however (about 20 minutes) before I had convinced myself to also do the Nevis Bungy, the highest one in NZ (134m, with 8.5 seconds of freefall). We booked all this in for Thursday and since it was only Tuesday we put it to the back of our minds for now. On arrival into Queenstown we checked in and then headed over to sort out our ski trip for Wednesday. We had heard that the weather was forecast to be perfect, blue skies, sunshine and barely a breath of wind so the majority of people signed up and hired equipment for the trip up to the Cardrona ski fields. That night Tutu led us on a good night out, starting with pizza and ending up trying 'teapots' (essentially a cocktail mix in a teapot). As always this was well-documented.
We were up at the crack of dawn the next day (how unusual...) to catch our bus up to the Cardrona ski fields and after an hour or so of steep winding roads we reached them. It had been quite a while since I had last skied (7 years maybe?) but everyone says it's like riding a bike, you never forget. With that in mind I strapped on my skies and started off with a couple of green runs (interestingly in NZ there is no red, just green, blue and black which made it a little harder to judge...) and soon it came back to me. That's no to say I didn't have any falls, there were definitely a few (including a spectacular wipeout at the end when I had tired legs and was going over a rather hard, icy patch) but it was great to do it again and remember how much fun it is (when you haven't got snow everywhere). By the end of the day I was pretty shattered (and everyone else seemed the same) although I did have a good catch-up with Tom (from Cairns) on the bus after running into him and Viktoria (not literally) in the queue for a chair-lift. After getting back to the hostel and having returned all our gear we wandered out in search of food and found some really good fish and chips just down the road from our hostel. After eating we did go out to Altitude and then World Bar but we didn't last very long after our epic day on the slopes and retired pretty early to rest up before we threw ourselves out of a cable-car.
On Thursday morning we had a lovely lie-in which made a great change from the last couple of weeks. After grabbing a bite to eat we went over to be picked up by the bus and taken out to the canyon where the bungy is. By this point my adrenaline had started to kick in and I just wanted to get up there and do it. Unfortunately they do it in weight order starting with the heaviest, so unsurprisingly I had to wait a while. Once we had been weighed several times and been fitted with a harness we boarded a small cable car to take us out to the bungy platform. There were maybe 12 people in total jumping so it took a while before it was my turn, during which I had the dubious pleasure of watching everyone else go first. Eventually it was my turn so I hopped up onto a reclining seat thing and had my feet fastened together and the bungy cord attached to my harness. From there it was just a short shuffle up to the edge, pausing only for a few photos, before the guy doing it counted down and said jump. With that I didn't think but just pushed myself off the edge. Like skydiving it is a bizarre experience but in a completely different way, you can see the ground rush up towards you but it doesn't feel real. It was such a thrill though, and I would definitely do it again sometime. Afterwards Ed and I got told to go back on the cable car as they could only have so many people on the platform at once. Returning to the main building I convinced Ed to do the swing with me in tandem. So after being weighed again we wandered out across a swaying bridge to the swing platform (quite nerve-wracking when you're almost shaking from adrenaline). There we were again harnessed up (opting to do it backwards) and moved out until we were suspended above the canyon. The operator man was just telling us what to do with our arms when he pressed the release button and we fell, screaming and cursing because it was so unexpected. Having said that it was AMAZING and I was almost tempted to spend the $35 to do it again there and then. It was awesome. I'm going to have to plan my next holiday with the next big thrill in mind...
We had decided that night to go out for a nice meal all together since quite a few of us had been on the bus together for a while and the next day some of us would be leaving while others stayed in Queenstown. It was an awesome night out and definitely a fitting way to part ways (and some great stories were written).
I had grown quite used to Queenstown by the time we left since we had spent 3 nights there, the longest of any stop while with Stray so it was a bit of an effort to convince myself to leave the next morning. From Queenstown we headed towards Mt. Cook, NZ's tallest mountain and were staying in a nice lodge that was once the first hotel in the area in Mt. Cook Village. By this point we were pretty shattered so I spent an afternoon relaxing and starting to catch up with this blog which had fallen far too far behind. It was a lovely place to visit though, and I would be tempted to come back and do a bit of hiking here sometime in the future.
From there we headed on to Rangitata (where you can normally raft, but not in winter) via Tekapo (home of a lake) and lunch at Geraldine. There we had a good vigorous walk before celebrating someone's birthday (and first legal drink) before a tasty dinner of Nachos, meat, salsa and guacamole and an evening watching films, playing cards, being massively beaten at table-tennis by Frank the Dutchman (of the pair Fwank and Wob) and finally watching our skydiving films (not as embarassing as it could have been). It was my last Stray evening and I think it was a great way to end a fantastic 18 days.
For good old times sake it was another early start as we headed straight to Christchurch where farewells were said and Frank and I headed to our accommodation which was actually in an old historic jailhouse. Despite this it was quite pleasant and although it was a brief stay (just the one night), it still left me with a good impression. After arriving, Frank and I went for a walk towards the city centre. You can't actually get into the city centre because of the damage caused by the earthquake but just walking past it gave us a pretty good idea of the devastation caused. A lot of the city felt like a bit of a ghost town, with few people around and no businesses open, showing quite how much it has affected the city and the community. We wandered through the Botanic Gardens for a bit before catching a bus back round to the Jailhouse and basically just chilling out (and reading even more books) for the rest of the day.
The next day was a similarly boring affair, although I did buy yet another book (which of course I have already read) and watched a bit of a film while also doing a bit of a catch up job on this blog. Then, that evening I caught a shuttle bus to the Airport to catch what I thought was my flight. Unfortunately I could tell by the look on the face of the girl at check-in that something wasn't quite right. After a bit of confusion it was established that I had somehow made the booking for the night before and had therefore clearly missed my flight. Feeling like a massive idiot I bought myself a new ticket for the flight that evening and eventually managed to get checked in. The rest of the flight was uneventful and I made it to Auckland where I caught a shuttle to Freeman's Lodge, the same place I had stayed last time I was in Auckland. I had a few days in Auckland, but I didn't really do a lot apart from read, relax, sleep and browse some souvenir shops. I had half-hoped to catch up with my cousin Katherine again but she was unfortunately really busy with work so I amused myself and tried to catch up on the sleep I had lost while with Stray. From there it was then a 12ish hour flight over to LA and the final country on my travels around the world...
Saturday 6 August 2011
Black Tie, The Opera, and Christmas in July
Unfortunately all good things have to eventually come to an end and so after two weeks we sadly said our goodbyes and were kindly given a lift over to Gympie by Rohan's mother where we hopped back onto a Greyhound bus down to Brisbane.
Because we had been having so much fun on the farm and had ended up spending longer there than we had originally planned we couldn't really hang about and had to make quick time down to Sydney in order to meet up with Daisy's friend Will who is currently working in Tasmania but was flying up to Sydney for a weekend. We only had one night in Brisbane until our mammoth overnight bus journey all they way down to Sydney, and after arriving in the afternoon we walked up the road to the hostel we were staying in and dumped our bags before having a bit of a wander into the city for a bit of an explore. When we had mentioned to Rohan that we were going on to Sydney we had learned that his brother Glen has a coffee stand in Brisbane so we decided to go and introduce ourselves and have a drink before starting our explorations. After our brief refuelling stop and a chat with Glen we headed off for a wander around the city to see what it had to offer. We soon decided it wasn't our favourite place to be, although we did have a nice evening watching the State Of Origin Grand Final on telly which was being played in Brisbane and we also managed to bump into our friend Eva who we had met in Cairns while perusing an art gallery (which was pretty good). It wasn't long, however, before our brief visit to Brisbane had come to an end and we hopped back onto our favourite bus service for the 15 hour run down to Sydney.
We arrived in the centre of Sydney reasonably early the next morning, all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed (or not) and walked the short distance up to the hostel we had booked into called Wake Up. We checked in and headed up to dump our stuff in our room where we were greeted by the pleasant sight of many empty bottles and a half-eaten kebab strewn across the floor. It somewhat resembled a drunken bombsite. It turned out that there had been a fairly serious party in the room the previous night (even though this isn't technically allowed) and the culprits had already left in a hurry that morning. Hoping that we would be able to return to a somewhat cleaner room later we dumped our bags and headed off for a bit of an explore of the city. We went over to Darling harbour and wandered the streets, stopping off in Paddy's Markets to peruse the very large number of tacky souvenir shops before heading over to the Powerhouse Museum. This was yet another fine example of an Australian museum, celebrating science and innovation in Australia, which again had a large number of fun interactive exhibits. Then we wandered up the waterfront of Darling harbour and back down George Street (which is one of the main streets in the city) and back round to our hostel. That evening we met up with Daisy's friend Will who had flown over from Tasmania for the weekend, and Sarah, who Will was staying with. We wandered down the road from our hostel to a pub for a couple of drinks which was great. On returning to the hostel I discovered a message from my friend Cazz who used to sing with back in the UK and she ended up taking us down to The Rocks (which is a part of the city down near the Harbour Bridge) to a place called Pancakes on the Rocks for dinner which was AWESOME. It was great to be able to catch up with Cazz as well and we reminisced a little about days gone by since it had been a while since we had last seen each other.
The following morning, after a bit of a lie-in Sarah and Will picked us up in Sarah's car and we drove over the Harbour Bridge and up to some of the northern beaches, first to Avalon and then to Palm Beach (which is used as Summer Bay in Home & Away apparently) where we went for a fantastic seafood lunch at a restaurant whose exterior is used for Al's Shack (also in Home & Away apparently) with some of Sarah's friends who live in Sydney. On our way back we stopped off in Manly to watch the sunset with a cup of tea before heading back to Sarah's house via the supermarket to pick up some supplies for the next day and some food for that evening. After a wonderful homely dinner of Kangaroo steaks and salad we properly immersed ourselves in Australian culture by watching some of a TV series called We Could Be Heroes and a film called The Castle which left us feeling much more in touch with Australian culture and their sense of humour. We were kindly given a lift back to the hostel where we had a reasonably early night.
In Australia, Christmas is not quite the same as in the UK. It takes place in the height of summer, generally on the beach and involving a barbeque. As such, some Aussies have a bit of a tradition of celebrating something called Christmas in July where they can try and indulge in the 'true' Christmas spirit of cold weather, mulled wine, ham, turkey and so on. We were incredibly fortunate in that we had managed to arrive in Sydney on the weekend that Sarah was hosting a 'Christmas in July' dinner which we had been very kindly invited to. It was an awesome day, if slightly surreal, and although it felt like Christmas in winter to the Aussies, to us it felt like a bizzare Christmas in summer since it was actually very fine weather with not a cloud in the sky and some nice British summer weather. It was a wonderful experience to meet some cool people and have a proper home-cooked dinner with all the trimmings. There were even lots of decorations and appropriate music! After we had finally eaten our fill and pulled our crackers we headed back to the hostel for what felt like a very well-deserved rest.
After I had flown from Siem Reap to Singapore, Soph and Smithy had made their way up to Bangkok from where Smithy headed into north Thailand and Soph flew to Melbourne, and after seeing most of the East Coast she ended up in Sydney. So on Monday we decided to catch up with her and jump on a train out into the Blue Mountains (named for the blue haze caused by the oils exuded by the eucalyptus trees). After an incredibly short 2 hour train journey we reached the mountains and after a good hearty brunch we hopped on a bus to go and see the sights. It was spectacular (if rather cold) and we managed to see some great views and beautiful scenery. Arriving back in Sydney, we said our farewells to Soph and headed back in the hostel where I checked my email.
Now, at the start of our epic Australian journey we decided it would be fantastic to go and see an opera at the Sydney Opera House, so after looking online we had booked tickets to go and see La Boheme when we were in Sydney. This turned out to be the day after our Blue Mountains trip. So there I was, having returned to the hostel, flicking through my emails when I see one from Opera Australia about La Boheme. So I opened it up and was somewhat surprised (massive understatement) to read that we had actually booked to go to see the opera on Opening Night. Not only that but there was a Dress Code. Black Tie with a Cabaret twist. Ah. After a (very) brief look in my backpack I came to the conclusion that I had no clothes that would in any way be suitable for such a dress code. This was a problem, as although the dress code almost certainly wasn't strict, we didn't really want to turn up to the opera looking like complete plebs, so we began a (frantic) hunt for a solution. Fortunately Sarah was a huge lifesaver and somehow managed to procure us some much more appropriate clothing which really enabled us to sleep a lot easier that night.
Although Sarah had done a phenomenal job of finding us some attire, there were still a few items that we needed, so much of Tuesday was spent hunting around in department stores for things like a pair of cheap black shoes. Fortunately we did eventually manage to acquire all the appropriate things and wandered out to the Opera House to collect our tickets before strolling back through the Botanic Gardens and heading to the State Library where there was a Press Photo Exhibition on. It was amazing to see some of the photos that people had managed to capture, both of normal life and big news stories. Having finished there, Daisy decided to wander over to the Art Gallery of NSW while I wandered back to the hostel to try and start organising myself before the big night. When Daisy returned we both geared up in our fancy attire (and received rather a large number of strange looks from other people staying in the hostel) and left for a relaxed stroll back to the Opera House (complete with yet more peculiar looks). Having arrived at the harbour we decided to splash out for a bit of a swankier dinner than usual and went to the Opera Bar which is set into the waterfront with a great view of the Bridge. There we indulged in some delicious food and a couple of drinks before heading up into the Opera House itself. On arriving we were incredibly glad that we had made the effort (and thanked our lucky stars for Sarah) as the majority of people in the foyer were done up to the nines. Being opening night there was even a red carpet and a photographer! Soon it was time for us to take our seats and we settled in to watch what has been rated the second-most popular opera in the world. It didn't disappoint. The cast were incredible and it was a fantastic show and very moving at points. Neither of us were particularly au fait with the plot-line of the show but that didn't detract from the enjoyment one iota. The sets were amazing and it had been set by the director in 1930s Berlin I believe. It was a true extravaganza and possibly the best thing we had done in our two months in Australia. To truly get into the swing of things we even sipped champagne in the interval while looking out at the lit-up night sky. Once the final bows had been completed we left and headed back over to the Opera Bar to discuss what we thought of it over a drink (the unanimous decision was that it was SO INCREDIBLY GOOD) before catching the train back to central station and up to bed.
We had discovered while travelling that Wednesday, the following day, as well as being Daisy's last day in Oz, was also the date of the release of the final Harry Potter film (actually before the UK release which was a bit odd) so as one final exciting thing to do (as well as preventing me from having no-one to see it with by the time I got back home) we headed over to the cinema and had a very chilled-out afternoon watching the *SPOILER ALERT* demise of Voldemort. After that we headed back to the hostel for Daisy to sort through her stuff before our final emotional farewell as she boarded an airport shuttle to catch her flight back home. After 2 months spending nearly 24 hours a day together it was going to be really quite strange to be doing things apart again...
With Daisy gone, I still had until Sunday morning in Sydney before I flew on to Auckland, NZ to continue my travels. I took it pretty easy really, doing things like planning the next phase of my trip, doing laundry and repacking my backpack for the millionth time. I had a good night out with some people in the hostel and wandered around Sydney a bit more, catching the ferry around from Darling Harbour round to Circular Quay and exploring a bit more of the Botanic Gardens to get some good photos. I also spent Saturday evening over having dinner with some people my parents knew pretty well when we were living back in Singapore at their house out in the suburbs. It was again a lovely change to enjoy a proper home-cooked meal with them in the comfort of a home, a luxury which you can end up missing sorely when you're always on the move. After I was kindly given a lift back to the hostel I completed most of my packing and had a nice early night before getting up bright and early to catch an airport shuttle for my flight to Auckland. I had a great time in Australia and did some amazing things and would love to go back and do some of them again one day, but it was time to be off to the land of Kiwis, Mountains and Adventure Sports...
Because we had been having so much fun on the farm and had ended up spending longer there than we had originally planned we couldn't really hang about and had to make quick time down to Sydney in order to meet up with Daisy's friend Will who is currently working in Tasmania but was flying up to Sydney for a weekend. We only had one night in Brisbane until our mammoth overnight bus journey all they way down to Sydney, and after arriving in the afternoon we walked up the road to the hostel we were staying in and dumped our bags before having a bit of a wander into the city for a bit of an explore. When we had mentioned to Rohan that we were going on to Sydney we had learned that his brother Glen has a coffee stand in Brisbane so we decided to go and introduce ourselves and have a drink before starting our explorations. After our brief refuelling stop and a chat with Glen we headed off for a wander around the city to see what it had to offer. We soon decided it wasn't our favourite place to be, although we did have a nice evening watching the State Of Origin Grand Final on telly which was being played in Brisbane and we also managed to bump into our friend Eva who we had met in Cairns while perusing an art gallery (which was pretty good). It wasn't long, however, before our brief visit to Brisbane had come to an end and we hopped back onto our favourite bus service for the 15 hour run down to Sydney.
We arrived in the centre of Sydney reasonably early the next morning, all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed (or not) and walked the short distance up to the hostel we had booked into called Wake Up. We checked in and headed up to dump our stuff in our room where we were greeted by the pleasant sight of many empty bottles and a half-eaten kebab strewn across the floor. It somewhat resembled a drunken bombsite. It turned out that there had been a fairly serious party in the room the previous night (even though this isn't technically allowed) and the culprits had already left in a hurry that morning. Hoping that we would be able to return to a somewhat cleaner room later we dumped our bags and headed off for a bit of an explore of the city. We went over to Darling harbour and wandered the streets, stopping off in Paddy's Markets to peruse the very large number of tacky souvenir shops before heading over to the Powerhouse Museum. This was yet another fine example of an Australian museum, celebrating science and innovation in Australia, which again had a large number of fun interactive exhibits. Then we wandered up the waterfront of Darling harbour and back down George Street (which is one of the main streets in the city) and back round to our hostel. That evening we met up with Daisy's friend Will who had flown over from Tasmania for the weekend, and Sarah, who Will was staying with. We wandered down the road from our hostel to a pub for a couple of drinks which was great. On returning to the hostel I discovered a message from my friend Cazz who used to sing with back in the UK and she ended up taking us down to The Rocks (which is a part of the city down near the Harbour Bridge) to a place called Pancakes on the Rocks for dinner which was AWESOME. It was great to be able to catch up with Cazz as well and we reminisced a little about days gone by since it had been a while since we had last seen each other.
The following morning, after a bit of a lie-in Sarah and Will picked us up in Sarah's car and we drove over the Harbour Bridge and up to some of the northern beaches, first to Avalon and then to Palm Beach (which is used as Summer Bay in Home & Away apparently) where we went for a fantastic seafood lunch at a restaurant whose exterior is used for Al's Shack (also in Home & Away apparently) with some of Sarah's friends who live in Sydney. On our way back we stopped off in Manly to watch the sunset with a cup of tea before heading back to Sarah's house via the supermarket to pick up some supplies for the next day and some food for that evening. After a wonderful homely dinner of Kangaroo steaks and salad we properly immersed ourselves in Australian culture by watching some of a TV series called We Could Be Heroes and a film called The Castle which left us feeling much more in touch with Australian culture and their sense of humour. We were kindly given a lift back to the hostel where we had a reasonably early night.
In Australia, Christmas is not quite the same as in the UK. It takes place in the height of summer, generally on the beach and involving a barbeque. As such, some Aussies have a bit of a tradition of celebrating something called Christmas in July where they can try and indulge in the 'true' Christmas spirit of cold weather, mulled wine, ham, turkey and so on. We were incredibly fortunate in that we had managed to arrive in Sydney on the weekend that Sarah was hosting a 'Christmas in July' dinner which we had been very kindly invited to. It was an awesome day, if slightly surreal, and although it felt like Christmas in winter to the Aussies, to us it felt like a bizzare Christmas in summer since it was actually very fine weather with not a cloud in the sky and some nice British summer weather. It was a wonderful experience to meet some cool people and have a proper home-cooked dinner with all the trimmings. There were even lots of decorations and appropriate music! After we had finally eaten our fill and pulled our crackers we headed back to the hostel for what felt like a very well-deserved rest.
After I had flown from Siem Reap to Singapore, Soph and Smithy had made their way up to Bangkok from where Smithy headed into north Thailand and Soph flew to Melbourne, and after seeing most of the East Coast she ended up in Sydney. So on Monday we decided to catch up with her and jump on a train out into the Blue Mountains (named for the blue haze caused by the oils exuded by the eucalyptus trees). After an incredibly short 2 hour train journey we reached the mountains and after a good hearty brunch we hopped on a bus to go and see the sights. It was spectacular (if rather cold) and we managed to see some great views and beautiful scenery. Arriving back in Sydney, we said our farewells to Soph and headed back in the hostel where I checked my email.
Now, at the start of our epic Australian journey we decided it would be fantastic to go and see an opera at the Sydney Opera House, so after looking online we had booked tickets to go and see La Boheme when we were in Sydney. This turned out to be the day after our Blue Mountains trip. So there I was, having returned to the hostel, flicking through my emails when I see one from Opera Australia about La Boheme. So I opened it up and was somewhat surprised (massive understatement) to read that we had actually booked to go to see the opera on Opening Night. Not only that but there was a Dress Code. Black Tie with a Cabaret twist. Ah. After a (very) brief look in my backpack I came to the conclusion that I had no clothes that would in any way be suitable for such a dress code. This was a problem, as although the dress code almost certainly wasn't strict, we didn't really want to turn up to the opera looking like complete plebs, so we began a (frantic) hunt for a solution. Fortunately Sarah was a huge lifesaver and somehow managed to procure us some much more appropriate clothing which really enabled us to sleep a lot easier that night.
Although Sarah had done a phenomenal job of finding us some attire, there were still a few items that we needed, so much of Tuesday was spent hunting around in department stores for things like a pair of cheap black shoes. Fortunately we did eventually manage to acquire all the appropriate things and wandered out to the Opera House to collect our tickets before strolling back through the Botanic Gardens and heading to the State Library where there was a Press Photo Exhibition on. It was amazing to see some of the photos that people had managed to capture, both of normal life and big news stories. Having finished there, Daisy decided to wander over to the Art Gallery of NSW while I wandered back to the hostel to try and start organising myself before the big night. When Daisy returned we both geared up in our fancy attire (and received rather a large number of strange looks from other people staying in the hostel) and left for a relaxed stroll back to the Opera House (complete with yet more peculiar looks). Having arrived at the harbour we decided to splash out for a bit of a swankier dinner than usual and went to the Opera Bar which is set into the waterfront with a great view of the Bridge. There we indulged in some delicious food and a couple of drinks before heading up into the Opera House itself. On arriving we were incredibly glad that we had made the effort (and thanked our lucky stars for Sarah) as the majority of people in the foyer were done up to the nines. Being opening night there was even a red carpet and a photographer! Soon it was time for us to take our seats and we settled in to watch what has been rated the second-most popular opera in the world. It didn't disappoint. The cast were incredible and it was a fantastic show and very moving at points. Neither of us were particularly au fait with the plot-line of the show but that didn't detract from the enjoyment one iota. The sets were amazing and it had been set by the director in 1930s Berlin I believe. It was a true extravaganza and possibly the best thing we had done in our two months in Australia. To truly get into the swing of things we even sipped champagne in the interval while looking out at the lit-up night sky. Once the final bows had been completed we left and headed back over to the Opera Bar to discuss what we thought of it over a drink (the unanimous decision was that it was SO INCREDIBLY GOOD) before catching the train back to central station and up to bed.
We had discovered while travelling that Wednesday, the following day, as well as being Daisy's last day in Oz, was also the date of the release of the final Harry Potter film (actually before the UK release which was a bit odd) so as one final exciting thing to do (as well as preventing me from having no-one to see it with by the time I got back home) we headed over to the cinema and had a very chilled-out afternoon watching the *SPOILER ALERT* demise of Voldemort. After that we headed back to the hostel for Daisy to sort through her stuff before our final emotional farewell as she boarded an airport shuttle to catch her flight back home. After 2 months spending nearly 24 hours a day together it was going to be really quite strange to be doing things apart again...
With Daisy gone, I still had until Sunday morning in Sydney before I flew on to Auckland, NZ to continue my travels. I took it pretty easy really, doing things like planning the next phase of my trip, doing laundry and repacking my backpack for the millionth time. I had a good night out with some people in the hostel and wandered around Sydney a bit more, catching the ferry around from Darling Harbour round to Circular Quay and exploring a bit more of the Botanic Gardens to get some good photos. I also spent Saturday evening over having dinner with some people my parents knew pretty well when we were living back in Singapore at their house out in the suburbs. It was again a lovely change to enjoy a proper home-cooked meal with them in the comfort of a home, a luxury which you can end up missing sorely when you're always on the move. After I was kindly given a lift back to the hostel I completed most of my packing and had a nice early night before getting up bright and early to catch an airport shuttle for my flight to Auckland. I had a great time in Australia and did some amazing things and would love to go back and do some of them again one day, but it was time to be off to the land of Kiwis, Mountains and Adventure Sports...
Saturday 30 July 2011
Barbed wire, cows and rolling tyres.
After the bus driver had abandoned us standing at the side of the road like the backpackers we were (having assured us that he has dropped people off there before and they have eventually been picked up) we did realise that we had in fact arrived before the scheduled time so we resigned ourselves to a bit of standing around in the cold and dark. Eventually, however, we gave in and rang the people who we were supposed to be staying with. We managed to get through to Fiona who was at home and informed us that Rohan had left ages ago and should already be there which naturally led to a spot of confusion. Eventually it was established that the buses aren't hugely consistent in exactly where they stop and Rohan had in fact been waiting in his car a couple hundred metres round the corner! We were rather thankful when Rohan eventually arrived, as 40 minutes standing in the cold and dark hadn't exactly been the most auspicious start to our farming experience. All negative thoughts were very quickly dispatched when we arrived at their farm and were introduced to the family, Rohan & Fiona, their lovely 2 year old daughter Eden, the cats Suki & Nook and the dogs Polly & Lucy. After a much appreciated hearty farm dinner we hit the sack pretty early in preparation for our first day of hard farm labour.
When I agreed to do some WWOOFing I wasn't really sure what it would entail, especially as I hadn't really spent a huge amount of time on farms, but it took very little time for me to fall in love with the lifestyle, the place and the whole experience.
The farm that Rohan, Fiona and Eden live on is located in a valley called Gleneden, next to Binjour in between Gayndah and Mundubbera (if you aren't up on your Australian geography then it is about 3 hours due west of Hervey Bay and Fraser Island). The farm has been in Rohan's family for ages and covers something like 300 acres. It isn't a commercial farm, rather they use it to be as self-sufficient as possible. They have a range of different animals (cows, pigs, chickens, horses) and an impressive garden where they grow a lot of fruit and vegetables. Rohan is also a Bullocky which means he drives bullocks as they would in the days of yore, he does this primarily for displays and currently has a team of 6 bullocks (Arthur, George, Edwin, Stanley, Rupert & Colin), all of which answer to their names and are very impressive when seen in action.
We had an absolutely fantastic time and both agreed it was probably the best 2 weeks we'd had in Australia (in fact we weren't originally going to stay that long, but we were having such a great time that we changed our plans). We were always very busy but loved being able to help out and try lots of wonderful new experiences. We were extremely lucky with our hosts as well, I was a little bit apprehensive at the idea of going to live with strangers, but Rohan, Fiona & Eden were lovely and made us feel incredibly welcome.
Every morning we would be up somewhere around 6:30am (often somewhat reluctantly) to see to the animals. We would feed the pigs and chickens and then have to go out into the fields to go and find the cows (Tinkerbell, Melissa, Teddy, Pitch, Duncan and the Bull) who could often prove to be a little elusive. Once they were in the yard we separated them so Tinkerbell could be milked and the calves (Duncan, Pitch and Bea who was kept in the yard overnight so she didn't drink all the milk) could be fed, before they could all be let out to wherever they would be spending the day. After checking all the relevant animals had enough water we would head back inside for breakfast (often porridge). They had a fine old wood-burning stove to keep the house warm (although it may have been winter it often actually ended up being nice and warm anyway) which required feeding in the morning and evening with wood (which I still bear scars from chopping).
During the day we would generally just do whatever needed to be done. This varied from heading into Gayndah to building a website, to housework or to something slightly more exciting (I shall elaborate shortly), generally with a healthy break for a remarkably healthy lunch with most of the produce being homegrown. Around 4pm we would have a fun excursion to bring the cows in, which sounds simple enough except for the fact that they were often left to wander down the drive and a dead-end road. Unfortunately they would often get adventurous and head off down the road out of the valley which meant we spent most of the day keeping an eye out for them and then having an occasional mad dash in the ute or by bike to go and turn them around. Added to this, they were often rather disinclined to actually head in the right direction and could take quite a bit of persuasion. This led to one escapade in which we were having to herd the bullocks back in the dark with only torches and the ute's headlights to guide us after having lost them up the road. Never a dull moment.
One of the more interesting projects that we engaged in was restoring and old dunny which Rohan had acquired from some friends so that he could use it when giving Bullock Displays as part of a true historial Australian experience. When we arrived it was upside-down looking rather sorry for itself. Clearly this meant we were going to have to flip it upright, onto the posts that Rohan had already measured and driven into the ground in the appropriate place. Using a system of pulleys, some levers, brute force and the power of the ute we first successfully managed to turn it onto it's side with surprisingly little difficulty. Next we rearranged the pulleys and prepared to use a similar method to bring it upright onto the posts. Being the forward thinkers we are we considered that it might be a good idea to cushion the impact with the posts somehow to try and prevent us from causing more damage than necessary so we got a big tractor tyre (which Daisy very adeptly manouvered into position) and put it under where the dunny was supposed to be landing. All seemed to be going well until the final movements of the attempted flip when the dunny came down, landed on the tyre, bounced off the tyre and fell sideways in a heap. We were not disheartened, however, and eventually righted said dunny and began reconstructing it. After two weeks it had complete walls, a new roof, a repaired floor and a fresh coat of paint and was certainly a pleasing sight to behold.
In those short two weeks we learned a number of new skills for our CVs (and I still have scars to prove it) including barbed-wire fence repair, cheese-making, rooster-plucking, cow-chasing and dunny-repairing. It was a huge amount of fun, even when things didn't proceed quite as planned and we ended up running around in circles trying to catch animals. It was a fantastic new experience and we were both gutted that we eventually had to leave. If nothing else it was great to live in a proper home for a couple of weeks and it was amazing to be able to eat home-cooked fresh food every day (and help in the preparation) and we'd both love to go back some day.
When I agreed to do some WWOOFing I wasn't really sure what it would entail, especially as I hadn't really spent a huge amount of time on farms, but it took very little time for me to fall in love with the lifestyle, the place and the whole experience.
The farm that Rohan, Fiona and Eden live on is located in a valley called Gleneden, next to Binjour in between Gayndah and Mundubbera (if you aren't up on your Australian geography then it is about 3 hours due west of Hervey Bay and Fraser Island). The farm has been in Rohan's family for ages and covers something like 300 acres. It isn't a commercial farm, rather they use it to be as self-sufficient as possible. They have a range of different animals (cows, pigs, chickens, horses) and an impressive garden where they grow a lot of fruit and vegetables. Rohan is also a Bullocky which means he drives bullocks as they would in the days of yore, he does this primarily for displays and currently has a team of 6 bullocks (Arthur, George, Edwin, Stanley, Rupert & Colin), all of which answer to their names and are very impressive when seen in action.
We had an absolutely fantastic time and both agreed it was probably the best 2 weeks we'd had in Australia (in fact we weren't originally going to stay that long, but we were having such a great time that we changed our plans). We were always very busy but loved being able to help out and try lots of wonderful new experiences. We were extremely lucky with our hosts as well, I was a little bit apprehensive at the idea of going to live with strangers, but Rohan, Fiona & Eden were lovely and made us feel incredibly welcome.
Every morning we would be up somewhere around 6:30am (often somewhat reluctantly) to see to the animals. We would feed the pigs and chickens and then have to go out into the fields to go and find the cows (Tinkerbell, Melissa, Teddy, Pitch, Duncan and the Bull) who could often prove to be a little elusive. Once they were in the yard we separated them so Tinkerbell could be milked and the calves (Duncan, Pitch and Bea who was kept in the yard overnight so she didn't drink all the milk) could be fed, before they could all be let out to wherever they would be spending the day. After checking all the relevant animals had enough water we would head back inside for breakfast (often porridge). They had a fine old wood-burning stove to keep the house warm (although it may have been winter it often actually ended up being nice and warm anyway) which required feeding in the morning and evening with wood (which I still bear scars from chopping).
During the day we would generally just do whatever needed to be done. This varied from heading into Gayndah to building a website, to housework or to something slightly more exciting (I shall elaborate shortly), generally with a healthy break for a remarkably healthy lunch with most of the produce being homegrown. Around 4pm we would have a fun excursion to bring the cows in, which sounds simple enough except for the fact that they were often left to wander down the drive and a dead-end road. Unfortunately they would often get adventurous and head off down the road out of the valley which meant we spent most of the day keeping an eye out for them and then having an occasional mad dash in the ute or by bike to go and turn them around. Added to this, they were often rather disinclined to actually head in the right direction and could take quite a bit of persuasion. This led to one escapade in which we were having to herd the bullocks back in the dark with only torches and the ute's headlights to guide us after having lost them up the road. Never a dull moment.
One of the more interesting projects that we engaged in was restoring and old dunny which Rohan had acquired from some friends so that he could use it when giving Bullock Displays as part of a true historial Australian experience. When we arrived it was upside-down looking rather sorry for itself. Clearly this meant we were going to have to flip it upright, onto the posts that Rohan had already measured and driven into the ground in the appropriate place. Using a system of pulleys, some levers, brute force and the power of the ute we first successfully managed to turn it onto it's side with surprisingly little difficulty. Next we rearranged the pulleys and prepared to use a similar method to bring it upright onto the posts. Being the forward thinkers we are we considered that it might be a good idea to cushion the impact with the posts somehow to try and prevent us from causing more damage than necessary so we got a big tractor tyre (which Daisy very adeptly manouvered into position) and put it under where the dunny was supposed to be landing. All seemed to be going well until the final movements of the attempted flip when the dunny came down, landed on the tyre, bounced off the tyre and fell sideways in a heap. We were not disheartened, however, and eventually righted said dunny and began reconstructing it. After two weeks it had complete walls, a new roof, a repaired floor and a fresh coat of paint and was certainly a pleasing sight to behold.
In those short two weeks we learned a number of new skills for our CVs (and I still have scars to prove it) including barbed-wire fence repair, cheese-making, rooster-plucking, cow-chasing and dunny-repairing. It was a huge amount of fun, even when things didn't proceed quite as planned and we ended up running around in circles trying to catch animals. It was a fantastic new experience and we were both gutted that we eventually had to leave. If nothing else it was great to live in a proper home for a couple of weeks and it was amazing to be able to eat home-cooked fresh food every day (and help in the preparation) and we'd both love to go back some day.
Monday 18 July 2011
Dido, Diving, Beaches and Lagoons
We awoke on the morning of our first day in Cairns (after only a few hours sleep) to the sound of Dido coming from the reception area beneath our room (this was to become a bit of a pattern as no-one could or would change the morning playlist). Fortunately things very quickly improved. After a week or so in Melbourne we were rather sick of the cold, wet weather which was far too much like home and so it was great to finally have some sun and warmth. Tropic Days, the hostel we were staying at, is a nice family-run place a little way out of the centre with a great atmosphere. They have a swimming pool, hammocks and a great bunch of people, so much so that it was very easy to spend days not really doing anything in particular. We would spend our time lounging around by the lagoon (which is basically just a big outdoor public swimming pool) down on the waterfront in the sunshine or relaxing on hammocks reading books (I have in fact managed to spend quite a bit of money on books after getting hooked on a series) followed by a spot of socialising in the evening.
We did actually try and do some interesting things as well though, on Monday we walked all the way over to the Botanic Gardens and back which was quite nice and invigorating as well as interesting followed by a BBQ night at the hostel organised by the legend Gabe. We had plenty to eat including kangaroo, emu and crocodile. Afterwards we headed in to town for a great night out. I think what really made Cairns such a fantastic experience were the people we met there, like Pontus, Eddie, Eva, Emma, Tom and Vicky, they were all so lovely and we had a great time getting to know them.
We had both really been looking forward to Wednesday when we boarded a boat with our new friend Pontus and headed out to the Great Barrier Reef. It certainly started off pretty well with the sun out and not a cloud in the sky! I went scuba diving for the first time (and enjoyed it so much that I did a second dive) and loved it. It was amazing and I loved getting up close and personal with some of the marine life. We stopped at 3 different sites during the day doing a mixture of diving and snorkelling around and had a fantastic lunch in between. We saw all sorts of exciting things from a sea turtle to reef sharks. It was quite nervewracking diving for the first time, but on my second dive I had relaxed a lot and it felt a lot more natural. I think I'd definitely like to go diving again, maybe in the Philippines where I met loads of people who said it was phenomenal. We had hired an underwater camera for the day so we could take full advantage of the experience and hopefully get some great photos to remind us of it, and in the end we did get some good pictures, although they definitely don't really convey the true amazingness of it.
We were pretty exhausted after the previous day's excitement so after having packed most of Thursday was spent relaxing and enjoying our last day in Cairns before our overnight bus down the coast to Airlie Beach with our new friend Eddie. Cairns is definitely one of my favourite places in Australia because we had such a great time there. It's not the biggest place and there aren't a particularly large number of things to do there but we ended up being really lucky with our choice of hostel and the people we met there that we didn't really care. And to be fair it's quite hard to argue against the merits of spending your time just relaxing in the sunshine, and of course the trip out the the Great Barrier Reef just made it all the more fun. After our all-you-can-eat pizza night we were feeling a little bit full and just sat around the hostel waiting for our taxi (we were feeling pretty lazy by this point) to take us over to the Greyhound bus stop. It wasn't the best journey we've had, but eventually we arrived at our new destination, Airlie Beach.
Airlie Beach is one of three towns that are basically all connected up and the main reason for tourists to visit is to go out to the Whitsundays. We arrived at our hostel and after checking into our surprisngly good room we went out for a wander. It isn't a very big place so we spent most of the day just lounging around by the lagoon (it seems to be a bit of a theme on the coast), reading, relaxing and eating icecream. For dinner we headed next door to the Down Under Bar & Grill where we could get discounts because of the hostel we were staying at. After a tasty bit of food we decided to spend the rest of the evening there, and in the end we were grateful it was just round the corner from where we were staying.
To be honest, the next day ended up being fairly similar, Eddie decided to head out on a boat trip but Daisy and I had another lazy day, although we did have a little stroll around the local market, where Daisy was fairly captivated by the sight of Camel Rides on the beach (even if the average age was about 10). For lunch we had a spot of fish & chips before spending the rest of the afternoon doing basically nothing. Eddie came back early in the evening and we went out to dinner together (where I decided to have steak yet again) before we had to bid him farewell as he was spending another night in Airlie Beach and we were leaving that night for Agnes Water & The Town of 1770. It was another of those lovely overnight buses where we got very little sleep, but come morning we found ourselves at our new destination.
Our new hostel was aptly named Cool Bananas and it seemed like a proper surfers' hostel with a really chilled out vibe, hammocks and a lovely beach just a short walk away. It was really quite a picturesque little place as we discovered soon after we arrived when we walked up to a lookout point on a headland which provided a stunning view of the endless beach, deep blue ocean and cloudless skies. Heading back we walked down to the 'town' (it was quite hard to call it a town considering how small it was) where we grabbed some supplies from the supermarket, and after a 5 minute walk around the 'town' (that's all you needed to see everything of interest) headed back up to the hostel. In the afternoon we went for a stroll along the beach which just seemed to go on forever. The weather was perfect and it really felt quite isolated down by the water. Back at the hostel we discovered that there was a guy who came over every evening to cook a proper meal in the kitchen so you could just write your name down on a list and get a proper home-cooked meal for a very reasonable price. We opted to have the beef stew that was on offer that night before retiring to watch a movie and eventually go to sleep as by this point we were pretty damn fatigued.
We had heard that 1770 was a really good place to learn how to surf, although this idea was quickly shot down when we were told there wasn't really any surf to speak of at the moment. Instead we discovered that you can do a Castaway experience where you get flown out in a small group of people in a little plane and basically abandoned on a little island with some supplies and stuff where you spend a night in proper isolation, although when we tried to book it turned out that there was no availability until after we had moved on. Mostly unpeturbed we instead decided to do a sunset se kayaking trip, although when we first enquired we were told it wasn't actually going to be on today. Fortunately our run of bad luck did not continue and we were told not long after that it was going to happen after all that evening. So later on we were picked up in a minibus and driven round to the town of 1770 (which incidentally is named because Cook landed there in the year 1770) where we all got set up in our two man kayaks and were led out down the estuary towards the sea. There were something like 10 of us in total and it was great fun kayaking out round the headland (if a little bit tiring). It all looked pretty picturesque as the sun got lower in the sky and we even managed to spot a mother and baby dolphin swimming around us! On our way back we stopped off on a beach looking out at the setting sun drinking what is affectionately known in Oz as 'goon' (cheap box wine) and indulging in some rather nice cake. Just before the sun set completely (as we would be a bit lost otherwise) we headed back on up the estuary to where we had started and got a lift in the minibus back to our hostel. Eddie had also arrived from Airlie beach that day so we hung out with him and again had a lovely meal cooked for us and watched the film that was on in the communal area. I did have a bit of a stress dealing with STA trying to rearrange the rest of my flights (as the next one was originally scheduled for the next day) but I got it all sorted and headed to bed feeling very contented.
We did aim to do something on our last day there but unfortunately it was a Tuesday which meant the museum was closed so we ended up basically doing nothing other than relaxing on the beach and having a nice easy day and a fairly early night before having to get up at the crack of dawn the next day to get the bus. Being me, I hadn't properly packed the night before like a sensible person would have done so I had the fun of packing by torchlight and hoping that I hadn't managed to forget anything. We checked out and the 3 of us (Eddie, Daisy and I) wandered down to the bus stop just as the sun was making it's first attempts at rising. After another really really fun bus ride we reached Maryborough where we waved farewell to Eddie who was carrying on to Brisbane and had a fun few hours waiting at a bus stop for our connecting one to head inland to a tiny place called Binjour where we would hopefully be met by Rohan and Fiona who we had arranged to go and stay with on their farm as part of the WWOOFing scheme. After getting some lunch from the nearby supermarket and the next book in my addictive series from a bookshop the bus eventually arrived. There were only 4 of us on the bus and it was a fairly uneventful journey and after a 30min stop in Gayndah (which is only about a quarter of an hour from Binjour) and a slight worry about an oil leak, we were abandoned in the dark by the side of the road in Binjour, hoping someone would turn up and take us in...
We did actually try and do some interesting things as well though, on Monday we walked all the way over to the Botanic Gardens and back which was quite nice and invigorating as well as interesting followed by a BBQ night at the hostel organised by the legend Gabe. We had plenty to eat including kangaroo, emu and crocodile. Afterwards we headed in to town for a great night out. I think what really made Cairns such a fantastic experience were the people we met there, like Pontus, Eddie, Eva, Emma, Tom and Vicky, they were all so lovely and we had a great time getting to know them.
We had both really been looking forward to Wednesday when we boarded a boat with our new friend Pontus and headed out to the Great Barrier Reef. It certainly started off pretty well with the sun out and not a cloud in the sky! I went scuba diving for the first time (and enjoyed it so much that I did a second dive) and loved it. It was amazing and I loved getting up close and personal with some of the marine life. We stopped at 3 different sites during the day doing a mixture of diving and snorkelling around and had a fantastic lunch in between. We saw all sorts of exciting things from a sea turtle to reef sharks. It was quite nervewracking diving for the first time, but on my second dive I had relaxed a lot and it felt a lot more natural. I think I'd definitely like to go diving again, maybe in the Philippines where I met loads of people who said it was phenomenal. We had hired an underwater camera for the day so we could take full advantage of the experience and hopefully get some great photos to remind us of it, and in the end we did get some good pictures, although they definitely don't really convey the true amazingness of it.
We were pretty exhausted after the previous day's excitement so after having packed most of Thursday was spent relaxing and enjoying our last day in Cairns before our overnight bus down the coast to Airlie Beach with our new friend Eddie. Cairns is definitely one of my favourite places in Australia because we had such a great time there. It's not the biggest place and there aren't a particularly large number of things to do there but we ended up being really lucky with our choice of hostel and the people we met there that we didn't really care. And to be fair it's quite hard to argue against the merits of spending your time just relaxing in the sunshine, and of course the trip out the the Great Barrier Reef just made it all the more fun. After our all-you-can-eat pizza night we were feeling a little bit full and just sat around the hostel waiting for our taxi (we were feeling pretty lazy by this point) to take us over to the Greyhound bus stop. It wasn't the best journey we've had, but eventually we arrived at our new destination, Airlie Beach.
Airlie Beach is one of three towns that are basically all connected up and the main reason for tourists to visit is to go out to the Whitsundays. We arrived at our hostel and after checking into our surprisngly good room we went out for a wander. It isn't a very big place so we spent most of the day just lounging around by the lagoon (it seems to be a bit of a theme on the coast), reading, relaxing and eating icecream. For dinner we headed next door to the Down Under Bar & Grill where we could get discounts because of the hostel we were staying at. After a tasty bit of food we decided to spend the rest of the evening there, and in the end we were grateful it was just round the corner from where we were staying.
To be honest, the next day ended up being fairly similar, Eddie decided to head out on a boat trip but Daisy and I had another lazy day, although we did have a little stroll around the local market, where Daisy was fairly captivated by the sight of Camel Rides on the beach (even if the average age was about 10). For lunch we had a spot of fish & chips before spending the rest of the afternoon doing basically nothing. Eddie came back early in the evening and we went out to dinner together (where I decided to have steak yet again) before we had to bid him farewell as he was spending another night in Airlie Beach and we were leaving that night for Agnes Water & The Town of 1770. It was another of those lovely overnight buses where we got very little sleep, but come morning we found ourselves at our new destination.
Our new hostel was aptly named Cool Bananas and it seemed like a proper surfers' hostel with a really chilled out vibe, hammocks and a lovely beach just a short walk away. It was really quite a picturesque little place as we discovered soon after we arrived when we walked up to a lookout point on a headland which provided a stunning view of the endless beach, deep blue ocean and cloudless skies. Heading back we walked down to the 'town' (it was quite hard to call it a town considering how small it was) where we grabbed some supplies from the supermarket, and after a 5 minute walk around the 'town' (that's all you needed to see everything of interest) headed back up to the hostel. In the afternoon we went for a stroll along the beach which just seemed to go on forever. The weather was perfect and it really felt quite isolated down by the water. Back at the hostel we discovered that there was a guy who came over every evening to cook a proper meal in the kitchen so you could just write your name down on a list and get a proper home-cooked meal for a very reasonable price. We opted to have the beef stew that was on offer that night before retiring to watch a movie and eventually go to sleep as by this point we were pretty damn fatigued.
We had heard that 1770 was a really good place to learn how to surf, although this idea was quickly shot down when we were told there wasn't really any surf to speak of at the moment. Instead we discovered that you can do a Castaway experience where you get flown out in a small group of people in a little plane and basically abandoned on a little island with some supplies and stuff where you spend a night in proper isolation, although when we tried to book it turned out that there was no availability until after we had moved on. Mostly unpeturbed we instead decided to do a sunset se kayaking trip, although when we first enquired we were told it wasn't actually going to be on today. Fortunately our run of bad luck did not continue and we were told not long after that it was going to happen after all that evening. So later on we were picked up in a minibus and driven round to the town of 1770 (which incidentally is named because Cook landed there in the year 1770) where we all got set up in our two man kayaks and were led out down the estuary towards the sea. There were something like 10 of us in total and it was great fun kayaking out round the headland (if a little bit tiring). It all looked pretty picturesque as the sun got lower in the sky and we even managed to spot a mother and baby dolphin swimming around us! On our way back we stopped off on a beach looking out at the setting sun drinking what is affectionately known in Oz as 'goon' (cheap box wine) and indulging in some rather nice cake. Just before the sun set completely (as we would be a bit lost otherwise) we headed back on up the estuary to where we had started and got a lift in the minibus back to our hostel. Eddie had also arrived from Airlie beach that day so we hung out with him and again had a lovely meal cooked for us and watched the film that was on in the communal area. I did have a bit of a stress dealing with STA trying to rearrange the rest of my flights (as the next one was originally scheduled for the next day) but I got it all sorted and headed to bed feeling very contented.
We did aim to do something on our last day there but unfortunately it was a Tuesday which meant the museum was closed so we ended up basically doing nothing other than relaxing on the beach and having a nice easy day and a fairly early night before having to get up at the crack of dawn the next day to get the bus. Being me, I hadn't properly packed the night before like a sensible person would have done so I had the fun of packing by torchlight and hoping that I hadn't managed to forget anything. We checked out and the 3 of us (Eddie, Daisy and I) wandered down to the bus stop just as the sun was making it's first attempts at rising. After another really really fun bus ride we reached Maryborough where we waved farewell to Eddie who was carrying on to Brisbane and had a fun few hours waiting at a bus stop for our connecting one to head inland to a tiny place called Binjour where we would hopefully be met by Rohan and Fiona who we had arranged to go and stay with on their farm as part of the WWOOFing scheme. After getting some lunch from the nearby supermarket and the next book in my addictive series from a bookshop the bus eventually arrived. There were only 4 of us on the bus and it was a fairly uneventful journey and after a 30min stop in Gayndah (which is only about a quarter of an hour from Binjour) and a slight worry about an oil leak, we were abandoned in the dark by the side of the road in Binjour, hoping someone would turn up and take us in...
Thursday 14 July 2011
Trains, Wine, Cheese and some Apostles
We were quite excited, if a little apprehensive at the prospect of a 2-day train journey across the country, so we rocked up at the station in Perth in plenty of time to catch the train. Too much time as it turned out, but better safe than sorry. Being backpackers, we had bought the cheapest seats, a reclining seat each for our almost 48 hour journey. Fortunately they were actually pretty comfortable and reclined most of the way back with plenty of leg-room (especially for little people like Daisy and I). In the end it was quite a fun journey, we paid a little extra for access to the lounge and free tea and coffee, made friends with some of the staff members and enjoyed some surprisingly good food at surprisingly good prices. It really brought home quite how vast a country Australia is and how much of it is empty, we could wake up after several hours sleep to see that the scenery was exactly the same as when we fell asleep.
We had a few stops on the way, in Kalgoorlie (where we arrived in the middle of the night and had a rather interesting bar experience), in Cook (which has a population of 4), and a super short stop in Port Augusta (again in the middle of the night). It wasn't the most eventful journey but you got to see a lot of the country (and a lot of nothing) and it ended up being quite an enjoyable experience and 40-something hours later we arrived in Adelaide.
Arriving feeling like true backpackers we decided that we would walk the 'short' distance to a hostel. It wasn't quite as short as we had estimated and it felt even longer due to carrying big backpacks and not having had a huge amount of sleep on the train... We did get there eventually though and it turned out to be quite a nice hostel with a decent bar and a lively enough atmosphere (especially on the night of the free BBQ!). After having dumped our stuff at the hostel we wandered down to the Central Market which was full of delicious-looking (and smelling) food (although still Australian prices =( ). We also discovered a second-hand bookshop which both of us had really got a taste for so I purchased the sequel to one I had discovered in Perth. After popping back to the hostel to check-in properly we headed out on a walking tour of Adelaide. We began by walking through the shopping district stopping at a few of Daisy's favourite shops (super-tacky souvenir shops selling everything from inflatable kangaroos to garish clothing plastered with the Australian flag) before heading over to the Museum of South Australia and the neighbouring Art Gallery, which although good (and full of screaming schoolchildren) really made you appreciate the quality of museums and galleries we have in the UK. From there we walked past the 'Migration Museum' which neither of us were inspired by up to the river and along to the Adelaide Oval which is supposedly one of the most pretty cricket grounds in the world. After being suitably impressed and looking around the Don Bradman museum which is housed there, we had a delightful stroll along the river up to the Botanic Gardens and then on to the National Wine Centre which had a remarkably good exhibition on wine, how it's made, where it comes from and some of the science behind it all. Afterwards we felt like true wine connoisseurs and decided to put our new found skills to the test with a spot of wine tasting which was definitely enjoyed by all. It also turned out that it was Tuesday which meant cheap pizza at Domino's which we gratefully indulged in (and even got an extra free pizza because they took so long with it). After consuming it with the help of a couple of reasonably priced drinks from the bar and a chat with some other people who where staying there we retired to real beds for the first time in what seemed like ages.
We had sort of planned to go on a tour of wineries in the hills around Adelaide the next day but we were discouraged by how expensive they were (and too disorganised to do anything about it). Instead we wandered through the city to a collection of galleries adjoining part of the university. There we saw some... interesting... works of art and were captivated by a group of people engaged in glass-blowing to create some incredible works of art. Some of what was on sale there was truly amazing and we both wished we could take some home with us. From there we headed south across the city to Haigh's Chocolate Factory where we saw (and smelled) people making some very tasty treats. Daisy managed to wangle us some free chocolate buttons and so we had a sit down with complimentary tea and coffee in order to consume them. It was good. That evening there was a free BBQ (which we obviously partook in) and a pool competition in which we both were rather average. We also met some cool travellers, among them Natasha and James who had a car and were driving west all the way across the country. As they were still looking for another person to join their epic trip they offered to take us on a trip into the Adelaide Hills the next morning.
The next day, after a brief grand tour of all the backpacker hostels in Adelaide so they could drop off some advertisements to try and find another person, we headed up into the hills with Natasha, James, Coco and Tony. First stop was an animal sanctuary where we got fairly up close with some kangaroos and wallabies and tried in vain to spot the elusive platypus and koalas. It was still a lovely place for a walk and a great start to the day. From there we headed over to Hahndorf, a German town, where we had a bit of an explore and tried some rather excellent local cheese. Next we visited an unexpectedly upmarket winery where we felt like right yobs trying a few wines and leaving straight away. After a stop at a chocolate factory (next to a cheese place that was unfortunately closed) we proceeded to have a nice scenic drive up to Mt. Lofty to see the sun set over Adelaide. It was a great view, just a little bit cold to enjoy it properly...
That night we took an overnight bus down to Melbourne. Arriving before the sun had risen we journeyed through the city on the tram to find our next hostel, 'The Ritz' (for backpackers), which is nice apart from being above a pub that regularly has rather loud (although fairly decent) music late into the night at weekends which can at times make sleeping a bit of a challenge. After a bit of a power nap we headed back into the city centre to sample the sights and sounds that Melbourne had to offer. That evening we had booked to go and watch a Super 15 rugby match between the Cape Town Stormers and the Melbourne Rebels which was great fun, especially as we were sitting right by one of the corner flags! The match ended up being rather one-sided as the Rebels were soundly beaten (but at least this made Daisy happy since she had already seen the Stormers play when she was in SA) but it was a fun experience nonetheless.
On Saturday we had arranged to meet up with Higgy, a friend from Girton who is now studying in Melbourne, who had very kindly offered to give us a personal guided tour of Melbourne. After he met us at our hostel we began the tour by going up to the Skydeck where we had a splendid 88th floor view down onto Melbourne in the sunshine and could see all the major landmarks all the way out to the suburbs. After taking a few photos we took the lift back down and crossed the city to visit the Victoria Market which seems to sell a bit of everything, from clothes to food to tacky souvenirs. Here we popped into the food court for lunch before heading back to Federation Square to visit the Gallery of the Moving Image which is mainly devoted to the history of things like film and television. It was actually a really good museum with lots of interactive exhibits and interesting takes on fairly familiar subjects. It also turned out that we were there during the Melbourne Jazz Festival which meant they had regular free open-air concerts, one of which we listened to a bit of on our way out of the gallery.
Next we headed over to the War Memorial which was set in a nice garden with splendid views from the roof balcony and while we were there was quite a moving 3 minute service of remembrance. It was a very peaceful place and the building itself served as a fine reminder to the sacrifices made. From there we wandered through the Botanic Gardens and around the lake there. By this point we were becoming experts on such things and decided that this was certainly one of the better gardens we had visited. We then hopped on a tram to take us back out to St Kilda. We decided to have a fun night out and went to a lovely and surprisingly cheap Italian place just down the road from where we were staying. Afterwards we moved on to a slightly upmarket-looking bar for a few beverages which was pretty darn fun before retiring for the night.
When looking around the city we had wandered into the cathedral and had decided that it would be quite nice to attend a service on Sunday morning. Having done a fair amount of singing back at Girton, we couldn't help but compare the cathedral choir to choirs in Cambridge, especially since they were in fact singing music we had sung while studying (A mass by Schubert if you were wondering). It ended up being quite an enjoyable service and comfortingly close to the kind of service we were used to back in England. The rest of the day was fairly relaxed, consisting of a return visit to Victoria Market and a visit to an Art gallery. We headed back to the hostel fairly early to make some dinner and to try and decide on where our adventure was going to take us next.
Monday began with a fun morning of sorting out things like tours, flights and hostel bookings before we headed out around lunchtime to explore St Kilda where we were staying. It turned out to be a rather splendid day of walking along the seafront, looking in interesting little shops and generally having a nice, relaxed afternoon. We walked past Luna Park, an old turn-of-the-century theme park, which, although closed for winter, did look quite quaint if maybe a little garish. After finding our favourite thing, a pub with a good deal on, for lunch we moseyed back down the streets eyeing up cool and exciting things in shops which were too expensive, too big, or both. We popped back into our hostel for a bit and that evening caught the tram down to where Higgy lives for supper. Higgy and Jess live with another couple in a lovely house (it's even got a white-picket fence) with another couple and their dog Clifford (who is most certainly not Big or Red). It was quite hard to believe that they were students and yet were living in such a nice place. Higgy had prepared a real feast for supper, starting with Kangaroo Steak Kebabs, followed by Lasagne and then Crunchie Ice Cream for dessert! It was really nice to have such a wonderful home-cooked meal and we followed it up by watching a spot of TV in a proper living room (it's amazing how much of a luxury it can be). Just in case things were going too well, thanks to a misreading of the small print on a tram timetable, we ended up missing the last tram back and being true cheapo backpackers we opted to walk back in the cold and dark. It wasn't quite the end to the evening that we might have hoped for but it was OK since we were still on a bit of a high.
Waking up on Tuesday morning and looking out of the window wasn't the most fun experience ever as the weather was pretty miserable, although fortunately this was the first time we hadn't had pleasant weather during our Australian travels. Since it clearly wasn't a day to be spending too much time outside we headed up to the Melbourne Museum to gain some more culture points. It turned out to be a very interesting (and big) museum, including such things as an indoor rainforest and a big section on evolution. We again discovered that Australian museums often seem to be a little bit more modernised and interactive, especially when it comes to the use of technology. I really enjoyed an exhibition on the human brain, covering everything from what it is made up of to the way we think and why we dream. After enjoying most of what the museum had to offer (including the ubiquitous groups of noisy schoolchildren), we departed (after of course looking in the shop and being subjected to a spot of Rolf Harris) and walked back through the city. On our way back we couldn't help but stop in nearly every bookshop we could find (despite the fact that books in Australia are outrageously priced) as well as a number of shockingly tacky souvenir shops. A quiet evening followed in preparation for the next day's excitement of the Great Ocean Road.
We woke once again to less than perfect weather, but refused to be downhearted as we were leaving early for our trip along the Great Ocean Road. We had ended up booking onto the same tour as our two American roommates, Mark & Bryn, and set off full of anticipation. Our first stop was Bell's Beach which is very famous for surfing although we didn't actually see anyone braving the grey, chilly weather, so we had a spot of tea and snapped a few quick photos before jumping back on the bus as the heavens opened. This set an example for the rest of the day. Next we headed to Memorial Arch where there is a big sign saying 'Great Ocean Road' over the road. More photos were taken here before heading off again. We passed through towns such as Lorne and Anglesea we stopped at a little wildlife place in Kennett River where we managed to see Koalas in the Eucalyptus trees and a plethora of brightly coloured birds that would land on you if you happened to have any bird-seed on you. It was great to get so up close and personal with animals and get some amusing photos, but we once again making a bit of a dash for the bus as the rain started once again. Our next stop was Apollo Bay for lunch (which was definitely needed) in a nice Greek place where I had Souvlaki. Just to mix things up a little we stopped next at a rainforest for a short little (wet) walk around which was quite a nice change of pace. As we were leaving it got pretty torrential on our way to the famous 12 apostles (even though there have never actually been 12 of them) which are a series of limestone stacks just off the coast. It was quite an adventure just trying to get out to the viewing platform, it was very wet and windy, so by the end we were really quite bedraggled. A kindly fellow called Wayne from England took pity on us generously bought us a hot drink in the little kiosk to try and regain some feeling in our extremities. Even though the weather wasn't quite what we might have hoped for it didn't detract from the spectacle and is definitely something to look back and laugh about (especially when looking at some of the pictures of us). Once back on the bus we stopped at a couple more sights, namely Loch Ard Gorge and London Bridge (the story goes that a couple were camping out there to hide from prying eyes but the 'bridge' of rock collapsed and left them stranded and the ensuing press excitement rendered their attempt pretty useless) before a long drive back to Melbourne via inland roads and a stop for dinner. Ultimately it was a great day, even the weather didn't dampen our spirits too much.
After such a big day we decided to follow it up with a more relaxing day. We spent quite a lot of it wandering around the Melbourne International Art Gallery which is huge and probably the best gallery we've been to. It had a great range of different kinds of art, from Oriental pieces to classical European pieces, to a lot of contemporary art. Every time you think you have come to the end you turn the corner and discover a whole other exhibition. We ended up a little bit tired from all the walking around and headed into the CBD for some food (and to take some more photos of the city before we left) before returning to the hostel for a fairly quiet evening and a meal at the same Italian place we had visited before.
Friday was our last day in Melbourne before a night flight up to Cairns (and hopefully some better weather) and the Great Barrier Reef. Most of it was just spent sorting out a few things and packing up. We spent some of the time having a last little wander around St Kilda and getting a few provisions from the supermarket before getting a shuttle to the airport in the evening and arriving in the 'Budget Terminal' (in true 'budget' style it was little more than a shed really). Our backpacking experience was then enhanced by our flight being delayed, but eventually we managed to get on the very 'budget' airline (Tiger Airways, which has since been told it can't fly people in Australia due to safety issues) and arrive in Cairns at around 3am. From there we had a relatively pain-free transfer to our hostel where we managed to find our way to our beds in the dark and crashed out at around 4:30am, which was extremely welcome.
We had a few stops on the way, in Kalgoorlie (where we arrived in the middle of the night and had a rather interesting bar experience), in Cook (which has a population of 4), and a super short stop in Port Augusta (again in the middle of the night). It wasn't the most eventful journey but you got to see a lot of the country (and a lot of nothing) and it ended up being quite an enjoyable experience and 40-something hours later we arrived in Adelaide.
Arriving feeling like true backpackers we decided that we would walk the 'short' distance to a hostel. It wasn't quite as short as we had estimated and it felt even longer due to carrying big backpacks and not having had a huge amount of sleep on the train... We did get there eventually though and it turned out to be quite a nice hostel with a decent bar and a lively enough atmosphere (especially on the night of the free BBQ!). After having dumped our stuff at the hostel we wandered down to the Central Market which was full of delicious-looking (and smelling) food (although still Australian prices =( ). We also discovered a second-hand bookshop which both of us had really got a taste for so I purchased the sequel to one I had discovered in Perth. After popping back to the hostel to check-in properly we headed out on a walking tour of Adelaide. We began by walking through the shopping district stopping at a few of Daisy's favourite shops (super-tacky souvenir shops selling everything from inflatable kangaroos to garish clothing plastered with the Australian flag) before heading over to the Museum of South Australia and the neighbouring Art Gallery, which although good (and full of screaming schoolchildren) really made you appreciate the quality of museums and galleries we have in the UK. From there we walked past the 'Migration Museum' which neither of us were inspired by up to the river and along to the Adelaide Oval which is supposedly one of the most pretty cricket grounds in the world. After being suitably impressed and looking around the Don Bradman museum which is housed there, we had a delightful stroll along the river up to the Botanic Gardens and then on to the National Wine Centre which had a remarkably good exhibition on wine, how it's made, where it comes from and some of the science behind it all. Afterwards we felt like true wine connoisseurs and decided to put our new found skills to the test with a spot of wine tasting which was definitely enjoyed by all. It also turned out that it was Tuesday which meant cheap pizza at Domino's which we gratefully indulged in (and even got an extra free pizza because they took so long with it). After consuming it with the help of a couple of reasonably priced drinks from the bar and a chat with some other people who where staying there we retired to real beds for the first time in what seemed like ages.
We had sort of planned to go on a tour of wineries in the hills around Adelaide the next day but we were discouraged by how expensive they were (and too disorganised to do anything about it). Instead we wandered through the city to a collection of galleries adjoining part of the university. There we saw some... interesting... works of art and were captivated by a group of people engaged in glass-blowing to create some incredible works of art. Some of what was on sale there was truly amazing and we both wished we could take some home with us. From there we headed south across the city to Haigh's Chocolate Factory where we saw (and smelled) people making some very tasty treats. Daisy managed to wangle us some free chocolate buttons and so we had a sit down with complimentary tea and coffee in order to consume them. It was good. That evening there was a free BBQ (which we obviously partook in) and a pool competition in which we both were rather average. We also met some cool travellers, among them Natasha and James who had a car and were driving west all the way across the country. As they were still looking for another person to join their epic trip they offered to take us on a trip into the Adelaide Hills the next morning.
The next day, after a brief grand tour of all the backpacker hostels in Adelaide so they could drop off some advertisements to try and find another person, we headed up into the hills with Natasha, James, Coco and Tony. First stop was an animal sanctuary where we got fairly up close with some kangaroos and wallabies and tried in vain to spot the elusive platypus and koalas. It was still a lovely place for a walk and a great start to the day. From there we headed over to Hahndorf, a German town, where we had a bit of an explore and tried some rather excellent local cheese. Next we visited an unexpectedly upmarket winery where we felt like right yobs trying a few wines and leaving straight away. After a stop at a chocolate factory (next to a cheese place that was unfortunately closed) we proceeded to have a nice scenic drive up to Mt. Lofty to see the sun set over Adelaide. It was a great view, just a little bit cold to enjoy it properly...
That night we took an overnight bus down to Melbourne. Arriving before the sun had risen we journeyed through the city on the tram to find our next hostel, 'The Ritz' (for backpackers), which is nice apart from being above a pub that regularly has rather loud (although fairly decent) music late into the night at weekends which can at times make sleeping a bit of a challenge. After a bit of a power nap we headed back into the city centre to sample the sights and sounds that Melbourne had to offer. That evening we had booked to go and watch a Super 15 rugby match between the Cape Town Stormers and the Melbourne Rebels which was great fun, especially as we were sitting right by one of the corner flags! The match ended up being rather one-sided as the Rebels were soundly beaten (but at least this made Daisy happy since she had already seen the Stormers play when she was in SA) but it was a fun experience nonetheless.
On Saturday we had arranged to meet up with Higgy, a friend from Girton who is now studying in Melbourne, who had very kindly offered to give us a personal guided tour of Melbourne. After he met us at our hostel we began the tour by going up to the Skydeck where we had a splendid 88th floor view down onto Melbourne in the sunshine and could see all the major landmarks all the way out to the suburbs. After taking a few photos we took the lift back down and crossed the city to visit the Victoria Market which seems to sell a bit of everything, from clothes to food to tacky souvenirs. Here we popped into the food court for lunch before heading back to Federation Square to visit the Gallery of the Moving Image which is mainly devoted to the history of things like film and television. It was actually a really good museum with lots of interactive exhibits and interesting takes on fairly familiar subjects. It also turned out that we were there during the Melbourne Jazz Festival which meant they had regular free open-air concerts, one of which we listened to a bit of on our way out of the gallery.
Next we headed over to the War Memorial which was set in a nice garden with splendid views from the roof balcony and while we were there was quite a moving 3 minute service of remembrance. It was a very peaceful place and the building itself served as a fine reminder to the sacrifices made. From there we wandered through the Botanic Gardens and around the lake there. By this point we were becoming experts on such things and decided that this was certainly one of the better gardens we had visited. We then hopped on a tram to take us back out to St Kilda. We decided to have a fun night out and went to a lovely and surprisingly cheap Italian place just down the road from where we were staying. Afterwards we moved on to a slightly upmarket-looking bar for a few beverages which was pretty darn fun before retiring for the night.
When looking around the city we had wandered into the cathedral and had decided that it would be quite nice to attend a service on Sunday morning. Having done a fair amount of singing back at Girton, we couldn't help but compare the cathedral choir to choirs in Cambridge, especially since they were in fact singing music we had sung while studying (A mass by Schubert if you were wondering). It ended up being quite an enjoyable service and comfortingly close to the kind of service we were used to back in England. The rest of the day was fairly relaxed, consisting of a return visit to Victoria Market and a visit to an Art gallery. We headed back to the hostel fairly early to make some dinner and to try and decide on where our adventure was going to take us next.
Monday began with a fun morning of sorting out things like tours, flights and hostel bookings before we headed out around lunchtime to explore St Kilda where we were staying. It turned out to be a rather splendid day of walking along the seafront, looking in interesting little shops and generally having a nice, relaxed afternoon. We walked past Luna Park, an old turn-of-the-century theme park, which, although closed for winter, did look quite quaint if maybe a little garish. After finding our favourite thing, a pub with a good deal on, for lunch we moseyed back down the streets eyeing up cool and exciting things in shops which were too expensive, too big, or both. We popped back into our hostel for a bit and that evening caught the tram down to where Higgy lives for supper. Higgy and Jess live with another couple in a lovely house (it's even got a white-picket fence) with another couple and their dog Clifford (who is most certainly not Big or Red). It was quite hard to believe that they were students and yet were living in such a nice place. Higgy had prepared a real feast for supper, starting with Kangaroo Steak Kebabs, followed by Lasagne and then Crunchie Ice Cream for dessert! It was really nice to have such a wonderful home-cooked meal and we followed it up by watching a spot of TV in a proper living room (it's amazing how much of a luxury it can be). Just in case things were going too well, thanks to a misreading of the small print on a tram timetable, we ended up missing the last tram back and being true cheapo backpackers we opted to walk back in the cold and dark. It wasn't quite the end to the evening that we might have hoped for but it was OK since we were still on a bit of a high.
Waking up on Tuesday morning and looking out of the window wasn't the most fun experience ever as the weather was pretty miserable, although fortunately this was the first time we hadn't had pleasant weather during our Australian travels. Since it clearly wasn't a day to be spending too much time outside we headed up to the Melbourne Museum to gain some more culture points. It turned out to be a very interesting (and big) museum, including such things as an indoor rainforest and a big section on evolution. We again discovered that Australian museums often seem to be a little bit more modernised and interactive, especially when it comes to the use of technology. I really enjoyed an exhibition on the human brain, covering everything from what it is made up of to the way we think and why we dream. After enjoying most of what the museum had to offer (including the ubiquitous groups of noisy schoolchildren), we departed (after of course looking in the shop and being subjected to a spot of Rolf Harris) and walked back through the city. On our way back we couldn't help but stop in nearly every bookshop we could find (despite the fact that books in Australia are outrageously priced) as well as a number of shockingly tacky souvenir shops. A quiet evening followed in preparation for the next day's excitement of the Great Ocean Road.
We woke once again to less than perfect weather, but refused to be downhearted as we were leaving early for our trip along the Great Ocean Road. We had ended up booking onto the same tour as our two American roommates, Mark & Bryn, and set off full of anticipation. Our first stop was Bell's Beach which is very famous for surfing although we didn't actually see anyone braving the grey, chilly weather, so we had a spot of tea and snapped a few quick photos before jumping back on the bus as the heavens opened. This set an example for the rest of the day. Next we headed to Memorial Arch where there is a big sign saying 'Great Ocean Road' over the road. More photos were taken here before heading off again. We passed through towns such as Lorne and Anglesea we stopped at a little wildlife place in Kennett River where we managed to see Koalas in the Eucalyptus trees and a plethora of brightly coloured birds that would land on you if you happened to have any bird-seed on you. It was great to get so up close and personal with animals and get some amusing photos, but we once again making a bit of a dash for the bus as the rain started once again. Our next stop was Apollo Bay for lunch (which was definitely needed) in a nice Greek place where I had Souvlaki. Just to mix things up a little we stopped next at a rainforest for a short little (wet) walk around which was quite a nice change of pace. As we were leaving it got pretty torrential on our way to the famous 12 apostles (even though there have never actually been 12 of them) which are a series of limestone stacks just off the coast. It was quite an adventure just trying to get out to the viewing platform, it was very wet and windy, so by the end we were really quite bedraggled. A kindly fellow called Wayne from England took pity on us generously bought us a hot drink in the little kiosk to try and regain some feeling in our extremities. Even though the weather wasn't quite what we might have hoped for it didn't detract from the spectacle and is definitely something to look back and laugh about (especially when looking at some of the pictures of us). Once back on the bus we stopped at a couple more sights, namely Loch Ard Gorge and London Bridge (the story goes that a couple were camping out there to hide from prying eyes but the 'bridge' of rock collapsed and left them stranded and the ensuing press excitement rendered their attempt pretty useless) before a long drive back to Melbourne via inland roads and a stop for dinner. Ultimately it was a great day, even the weather didn't dampen our spirits too much.
After such a big day we decided to follow it up with a more relaxing day. We spent quite a lot of it wandering around the Melbourne International Art Gallery which is huge and probably the best gallery we've been to. It had a great range of different kinds of art, from Oriental pieces to classical European pieces, to a lot of contemporary art. Every time you think you have come to the end you turn the corner and discover a whole other exhibition. We ended up a little bit tired from all the walking around and headed into the CBD for some food (and to take some more photos of the city before we left) before returning to the hostel for a fairly quiet evening and a meal at the same Italian place we had visited before.
Friday was our last day in Melbourne before a night flight up to Cairns (and hopefully some better weather) and the Great Barrier Reef. Most of it was just spent sorting out a few things and packing up. We spent some of the time having a last little wander around St Kilda and getting a few provisions from the supermarket before getting a shuttle to the airport in the evening and arriving in the 'Budget Terminal' (in true 'budget' style it was little more than a shed really). Our backpacking experience was then enhanced by our flight being delayed, but eventually we managed to get on the very 'budget' airline (Tiger Airways, which has since been told it can't fly people in Australia due to safety issues) and arrive in Cairns at around 3am. From there we had a relatively pain-free transfer to our hostel where we managed to find our way to our beds in the dark and crashed out at around 4:30am, which was extremely welcome.
Tuesday 31 May 2011
Oz-tastic
It was another early morning when I left to go to Australia, but fortunately everything ran smoothly. I flew from Singapore to Perth on Saturday morning and finally made it through Australian Customs at around 3pm. I was going to be meeting up with Daisy in Perth but she was staying with a friend who was studying there so I had booked myself a bed in a hostel. It proved surprisingly easy to get there, I just got on a shuttle bus which dropped my off right outside the hostel. I had been to Perth once before, but we didn't spend long in the city and it was something like 15 years ago so I don't really remember any of it.
After arriving at the hostel and having a bit of a relax I met up with Daisy and her friend Margry (actually her surname, but that's what Daisy knows her as...) in Northbridge (where I was staying, and apparently where there are often fights... great...) for a couple of drinks (although it took a while 'til we actually got to the drinking part as my driving licence wasn't accepted as ID and I had cleverly left my passport at the hostel) which was a great way to end a day of travelling.
Being my usual very organised self I hadn't really done much in the way of planning for Oz and as such I had even less of a plan for Perth, so on Sunday Daisy and I met up to do some serious planning (once Daisy had finally got up and caught a bus... =P ). I also got my first proper experience of how expensive Australia is now, £7 pints and £15 salads... Nevertheless we managed to find somewhere that did relatively reasonably priced food and had a nice long lunch looking through the Lonely Planet guide and figuring out roughly what we were going to do and when. After eating our fill we wandered down to the river and walked along the waterfront. The weather was lovely and we had a great view out across the river (which Daisy had managed to mistake for the sea). That evening we had been invited to a 'barbie' at someone's house where we had a true Aussie experience of sitting outside drinking 'stubbies' and eating a colossal amount of meat (although there were a number of complaints that it was under 20 degrees and therefore far too cold to be outside) which was really good fun.
Most of Monday was spent sorting out admin things in the city like Daisy's flights and a student card before a nice lazy evening at Margry's flat. On Tuesday we got the train over to Freemantle on the coast. We went and visited the Maritime Museum which had a great photography exhibition of water-dwelling creatures like mangrove tree snails where the photographer had named and given personalities and characters to each of the creatures he photographed. We even found a snail called Daisy who had a 'happy countenance'. It was quite an interesting museum although we both agreed that it wasn't quite as well organised as other museums we had visited, there was no real clear order to the various exhibits so it seemed a little chaotic. Afterwards we headed up to the Roundhouse overlooking the water which is the oldest public building in Western Australia and saw the firing of the time gun and lowering of the time ball (which turns out to be quite a recent tradition mimicing a similar event that used to happen a long time ago). Since we were on the coast, seafood was the order of the day for lunch and we managed to find some nice fish & chips down by the water. We then headed further along the waterfront and found a brewery/pub/bar/restaurant place called Little Creatures which had an amazing atmosphere and seemed to be a great place to go for a meal or just a drink or even to buy a load to take home. Even the merchandise was impressive. After sampling what turned out to be very good beer we headed up the high street back to the train station which has some interesting colonial architecture although it did seem remarkably dead considering it was about 4:30 in the afternoon. Daisy and I popped into the supermarket on the way back and headed to the hostel where I was staying to cook some dinner and have a drink before retiring for the night.
One of the things that Daisy was very keen to do in Australia was WWOOFing (Willing Workers On Organic Farms) and she managed to convince me that this would be quite a fun thing to do for a week or so. Basically the idea is you go and live on a farm somewhere and get free food and board in exchange for doing something like 4-6 hours of work on the farm each day. It does vary a lot from place to place but it sounded like it would be a great way to see a different side of Australia. As such, on Wednesday we went and signed up for the scheme which basically consists of buying a book of all the current available placements and getting a membership number that entitles you to partake in it for a year. After doing this we grabbed a bit of a picnic lunch from a supermarket and walked up to King's Park (which is the largest urban park in the world). We were a little disappointed to discover that much of it seemed to be undergoing some kind of construction work but nonetheless we managed to find a spot on the grass with great views overlooking the river and the city to eat. While eating we had a look through the WWOOF book to see if there were any particular ones that caught our eye. As it happened, there were quite a lot that caught our eye, but not all for the right reasons. They seemed to vary from people who wanted a spot of gardening and housework done on there 1 acre 'farm' right up to people with 40,000 acre cattle farms who wanted experienced riders to help out. Some other highlights included a nudist farm, numerous 'communities' interested in meditation and sprituality and absurdly strict people with a huge list of rules you would be expected to follow. We did, however, manage to find a number of very promising looking ones that we thought were worth following up.
On Thursday we went over to the WA University campus to meet up with Margry. It seemed really nice, not quite as pretty as Cambridge, but it looked like a lot of fun, to the point that if I was ever to consider going back into academia I would definitely think about going somewhere like that. After only making about 1 wrong turn (which seemed to be becoming quite a regular occurence) and Daisy again confusing the river with the sea (quite surprising for a geographer) we found our way to Margry's department where she had lots of machines hooked up to a mostly naked guy in an inflatable bath. Once she had finished that particular test we headed back through the university and up to King's Park again. It actually turned out that the construction work was only happening in a small part of the park, but that it just happened to be the part of the park we arrived at last time. It was really quite beautiful with parts of it looking like wilderness and other parts full of lush trees and flowers. We walked along a nice elevated walkway which gave some stunning views accross the city before catching a couple of buses back to Margry's via the supermarket for dinner.
The plan for the next day was to get up bright and early and catch the train down the coast to Rockingham and from there get the ferry across to Penguin Island. Unsurprisingly our start wasn't quite as bright and early as it might have been (mainly my fault) but it wasn't too long before we were on the train. The plan we had was actually quite vague in that we didn't really know how we were going to get to the jetty for the boat across to the island. Fortunately I still had a brochure in my bag which at the very least indicated which bus we should catch. So we hopped on the bus (quickly feeling glad we hadn't attempted to walk it) and kept our eyes glued to the windows, hoping to catch a glimpse of anything that looked promising. Daisy was quite paranoid about missing the stop so we eventually got off when we were down on the waterfront, although after asking a couple of locals we discovered it was a fair walk to the jetty as we had disembarked several stops too early. It wasn't all bad though as we had a lovely walk in the sunshine down along the seafront until we located our destination. Conveniently we had arrived just 10 minutes before the next ferry departed so we bought tickets and hopped onto the boat almost immediately. Unfortunately this did mean we didn't have lunch as there was nowhere to buy food on the island and we didn't have time to buy anything before we left. We managed to cope though, and had a lovely time on the island. The weather was almost perfect as we walked around the island and although we didn't see any of the penguins out and about (we could hear them in the bushes) we were there for feeding time inside the Discovery Centre for those penguins who had been injured or orphaned. They were really cute, although they did smell pretty bad...
Saturday was to be our last full day in Perth before catching the Indian Pacific train all the way over to Adelaide (the distance is roughly the same as Spain to Turkey). Daisy wanted to go and watch Margry play hockey so I opted to stay at the hostel and try and send a few emails and do a little bit of work in the morning. Later I popped into town to grab a bite to eat and have one last wander around. It just so happened that it was also the last weekend of some kind of contemporary music festival in Perth so I had a bit of a listen to some of that before visiting the Western Australian Museum which had some interesting displays on various kinds of flora and fauna, the aboriginal people and an exhibition on AC/DC which had a very impressive range of memorabilia as well as a recording of one of their live concerts. On the way back I stopped to listen to some more music before popping into an art gallery. Most of the pieces in the gallery were very modern and a little bit strange but still interesting. One of my favourites was a series of photos capturing the instant when various fairly everyday objects landed in pools of coloured water, there was something fascinating about seeing all the ripples and droplets caught on film like that. Slightly more unusual were things like a load of blank white cartridge paper lain out along the floor and some strange video pieces. I spent the evening packing up my bag in preparation for the next day and finishing off a spot of work with a beer while watching telly. Not a bad evening.
It was yet another early start on Sunday with Margry's mum very kindly offering to give us lifts to East Perth station where we were going to be catching the train from. We weren't entirely sure what to expect apart from it would take about 2 days to cross the country, but we were definitely excited.
After arriving at the hostel and having a bit of a relax I met up with Daisy and her friend Margry (actually her surname, but that's what Daisy knows her as...) in Northbridge (where I was staying, and apparently where there are often fights... great...) for a couple of drinks (although it took a while 'til we actually got to the drinking part as my driving licence wasn't accepted as ID and I had cleverly left my passport at the hostel) which was a great way to end a day of travelling.
Being my usual very organised self I hadn't really done much in the way of planning for Oz and as such I had even less of a plan for Perth, so on Sunday Daisy and I met up to do some serious planning (once Daisy had finally got up and caught a bus... =P ). I also got my first proper experience of how expensive Australia is now, £7 pints and £15 salads... Nevertheless we managed to find somewhere that did relatively reasonably priced food and had a nice long lunch looking through the Lonely Planet guide and figuring out roughly what we were going to do and when. After eating our fill we wandered down to the river and walked along the waterfront. The weather was lovely and we had a great view out across the river (which Daisy had managed to mistake for the sea). That evening we had been invited to a 'barbie' at someone's house where we had a true Aussie experience of sitting outside drinking 'stubbies' and eating a colossal amount of meat (although there were a number of complaints that it was under 20 degrees and therefore far too cold to be outside) which was really good fun.
Most of Monday was spent sorting out admin things in the city like Daisy's flights and a student card before a nice lazy evening at Margry's flat. On Tuesday we got the train over to Freemantle on the coast. We went and visited the Maritime Museum which had a great photography exhibition of water-dwelling creatures like mangrove tree snails where the photographer had named and given personalities and characters to each of the creatures he photographed. We even found a snail called Daisy who had a 'happy countenance'. It was quite an interesting museum although we both agreed that it wasn't quite as well organised as other museums we had visited, there was no real clear order to the various exhibits so it seemed a little chaotic. Afterwards we headed up to the Roundhouse overlooking the water which is the oldest public building in Western Australia and saw the firing of the time gun and lowering of the time ball (which turns out to be quite a recent tradition mimicing a similar event that used to happen a long time ago). Since we were on the coast, seafood was the order of the day for lunch and we managed to find some nice fish & chips down by the water. We then headed further along the waterfront and found a brewery/pub/bar/restaurant place called Little Creatures which had an amazing atmosphere and seemed to be a great place to go for a meal or just a drink or even to buy a load to take home. Even the merchandise was impressive. After sampling what turned out to be very good beer we headed up the high street back to the train station which has some interesting colonial architecture although it did seem remarkably dead considering it was about 4:30 in the afternoon. Daisy and I popped into the supermarket on the way back and headed to the hostel where I was staying to cook some dinner and have a drink before retiring for the night.
One of the things that Daisy was very keen to do in Australia was WWOOFing (Willing Workers On Organic Farms) and she managed to convince me that this would be quite a fun thing to do for a week or so. Basically the idea is you go and live on a farm somewhere and get free food and board in exchange for doing something like 4-6 hours of work on the farm each day. It does vary a lot from place to place but it sounded like it would be a great way to see a different side of Australia. As such, on Wednesday we went and signed up for the scheme which basically consists of buying a book of all the current available placements and getting a membership number that entitles you to partake in it for a year. After doing this we grabbed a bit of a picnic lunch from a supermarket and walked up to King's Park (which is the largest urban park in the world). We were a little disappointed to discover that much of it seemed to be undergoing some kind of construction work but nonetheless we managed to find a spot on the grass with great views overlooking the river and the city to eat. While eating we had a look through the WWOOF book to see if there were any particular ones that caught our eye. As it happened, there were quite a lot that caught our eye, but not all for the right reasons. They seemed to vary from people who wanted a spot of gardening and housework done on there 1 acre 'farm' right up to people with 40,000 acre cattle farms who wanted experienced riders to help out. Some other highlights included a nudist farm, numerous 'communities' interested in meditation and sprituality and absurdly strict people with a huge list of rules you would be expected to follow. We did, however, manage to find a number of very promising looking ones that we thought were worth following up.
On Thursday we went over to the WA University campus to meet up with Margry. It seemed really nice, not quite as pretty as Cambridge, but it looked like a lot of fun, to the point that if I was ever to consider going back into academia I would definitely think about going somewhere like that. After only making about 1 wrong turn (which seemed to be becoming quite a regular occurence) and Daisy again confusing the river with the sea (quite surprising for a geographer) we found our way to Margry's department where she had lots of machines hooked up to a mostly naked guy in an inflatable bath. Once she had finished that particular test we headed back through the university and up to King's Park again. It actually turned out that the construction work was only happening in a small part of the park, but that it just happened to be the part of the park we arrived at last time. It was really quite beautiful with parts of it looking like wilderness and other parts full of lush trees and flowers. We walked along a nice elevated walkway which gave some stunning views accross the city before catching a couple of buses back to Margry's via the supermarket for dinner.
The plan for the next day was to get up bright and early and catch the train down the coast to Rockingham and from there get the ferry across to Penguin Island. Unsurprisingly our start wasn't quite as bright and early as it might have been (mainly my fault) but it wasn't too long before we were on the train. The plan we had was actually quite vague in that we didn't really know how we were going to get to the jetty for the boat across to the island. Fortunately I still had a brochure in my bag which at the very least indicated which bus we should catch. So we hopped on the bus (quickly feeling glad we hadn't attempted to walk it) and kept our eyes glued to the windows, hoping to catch a glimpse of anything that looked promising. Daisy was quite paranoid about missing the stop so we eventually got off when we were down on the waterfront, although after asking a couple of locals we discovered it was a fair walk to the jetty as we had disembarked several stops too early. It wasn't all bad though as we had a lovely walk in the sunshine down along the seafront until we located our destination. Conveniently we had arrived just 10 minutes before the next ferry departed so we bought tickets and hopped onto the boat almost immediately. Unfortunately this did mean we didn't have lunch as there was nowhere to buy food on the island and we didn't have time to buy anything before we left. We managed to cope though, and had a lovely time on the island. The weather was almost perfect as we walked around the island and although we didn't see any of the penguins out and about (we could hear them in the bushes) we were there for feeding time inside the Discovery Centre for those penguins who had been injured or orphaned. They were really cute, although they did smell pretty bad...
Saturday was to be our last full day in Perth before catching the Indian Pacific train all the way over to Adelaide (the distance is roughly the same as Spain to Turkey). Daisy wanted to go and watch Margry play hockey so I opted to stay at the hostel and try and send a few emails and do a little bit of work in the morning. Later I popped into town to grab a bite to eat and have one last wander around. It just so happened that it was also the last weekend of some kind of contemporary music festival in Perth so I had a bit of a listen to some of that before visiting the Western Australian Museum which had some interesting displays on various kinds of flora and fauna, the aboriginal people and an exhibition on AC/DC which had a very impressive range of memorabilia as well as a recording of one of their live concerts. On the way back I stopped to listen to some more music before popping into an art gallery. Most of the pieces in the gallery were very modern and a little bit strange but still interesting. One of my favourites was a series of photos capturing the instant when various fairly everyday objects landed in pools of coloured water, there was something fascinating about seeing all the ripples and droplets caught on film like that. Slightly more unusual were things like a load of blank white cartridge paper lain out along the floor and some strange video pieces. I spent the evening packing up my bag in preparation for the next day and finishing off a spot of work with a beer while watching telly. Not a bad evening.
It was yet another early start on Sunday with Margry's mum very kindly offering to give us lifts to East Perth station where we were going to be catching the train from. We weren't entirely sure what to expect apart from it would take about 2 days to cross the country, but we were definitely excited.
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